How to make a stand for a photo shoot with your own hands. How to make a stand with your own hands - a step-by-step algorithm of actions (61 photos)

How to make an information stand with your own hands

You will need a printed layout on a glossy (matte) film with a print resolution of 720 DPI., PVC plastic 3-4 mm. thickness (for stand sizes up to 120x120 cm. PVC plastic 3 mm is enough), smooth roller, clerical knife, metal ruler 1 m. (the wider and heavier, the more convenient).

For starters, there is no experience yet. Cut off the plastic a little over the size of the printed area by 5 cm on all sides. Lay the plastic lengthwise on a smooth, hard surface. Trim the excess white margin of the printable area from the pasted right (for right-handers) and bottom edges, or from all sides. Wipe the plastic with a damp cloth from dust. For the shortest print length, attach the right edge of the printable area to the edge of the plastic. Pull back the backing paper 5 cm from the edge to the left and roll up the edge to the full width. Holding the printed sheet at an angle of 20-30 degrees and pulling the protective layer of paper to the left to the width of the roller, roll the film onto the plastic along the entire length (width). Make sure that there are no distortions and blisters.

Cut the image pasted on the plastic with a ruler and a knife along the outer perimeter of the edging (the edging is not cut off). You can clean the edges with sandpaper (zero). The stand is ready. After a couple of stands, this procedure will take you no more than 10 minutes.

How to make pockets for the information stand with your own hands

The devil is not as scary as he is painted. Let's consider how to make it yourself after acquiring a digital layout of the stand. Necessary materials:

• Printed layout on a glossy (matte) film with a print resolution of 720 DPI.
• PVC plastic 3 -4 mm. (up to 150x120 cm. 3 mm is enough) of the appropriate size.
• PET transparent with a thickness of 0.7 to 1 mm. on the number of pockets (PET sheet size 125x205 cm, 1 sheet - 30 A4 pockets.)
• Double-sided adhesive tape 6 mm wide. in a roll.
• White self-adhesive strips 7 mm wide. (cut out from the remaining unprinted area around the edges).
• Any roller is smooth.
• Stationery knife.
• Metal meter ruler.

Pockets are made of PET or plastic. With a cut in the middle in the form of an oval or a corner on the left or right. For the most part, pockets are made of PET 0.7-1 mm. with cut corners. More complex pockets are manufactured by specialized firms and sold at retail. We will consider the most common way to make pockets in order to reduce the cost of the stand. The dimensions of the pockets are cut out increased by the width of the adhesive tape. The normal size of an unprocessed A4 pocket is 230x320 mm, so that a sheet of f. A4 freely inserted and removed.

Take a PET sheet, lay it out on the table along the width of the sheet, put something solid under the cut line (so as not to spoil the table), mark it horizontally into strips of 32 cm, Put a metal ruler and use a clerical knife to cut along the marked lines into strips 32 cm wide. Some sites say that a clerical knife is not suitable for this purpose. If you are told that you cannot cut a pocket with a clerical knife, do not believe it (more than one thousand pockets have been cut out). Then mark 23 cm strips on top and cut along the marked lines. That. you get a 32x23 cm pocket. This is a landscape format, turn it over and get a book size 23x32 cm .. If the pocket is a book size, step back 5 cm to the left (or right) and 5 cm down, draw a corner and cut it. The pocket is ready. According to the landscape format, the pocket is cut exactly like this.

Bend the protective film around the edges by 2-3 cm and glue the 6 mm double-sided tape. on three sides of the pocket (right large, left with a cut, lower part). When you receive a printed layout on a plotter, you are left with white space on four sides of the layout. You use it for edging pockets. Turn the pocket over, fold back the protective film and glue it with ORACAL film cut out for edging pockets with a width of at least 7 mm. also on three sides. Corners cut obliquely, or do not cut.

Put a PVC sheet with a pasted image on the table, see how the pockets are located in the image, remove the protective film inside the pocket, put it in its place. Substitute a ruler under the bottom row of pockets, align the bottom of the pockets with it. First, put something heavy on the ruler so that it does not budge. Holding the pocket with your fingers in place (the pocket should not move) and bending the edge, remove the protective film from the adhesive tape with the length of the side of the pocket and stick it to the stand, then from the bottom and the short side. And so all the pockets of the bottom row. Rearrange the ruler under the top row and do the same.

The stand is ready.

You can not bother and buy ready-made pockets in your city. They are made of plastic or PET. PET pockets should cost several times cheaper than transparent plastic pockets. Thus, an information stand with pockets can be made independently and even at home.

But, if you do not want to bother with buying a layout and making a stand, you can order a ready-made stand of the same kind. They will make it professionally and quickly and with high quality.

What are information boards made of? This question is asked by those who, for one reason or another, need to make an information stand. In this article I will try to explain in detail from what, and most importantly, how information stands are made.

So, let's begin. The main thing in the information stand is its basis. It depends on how long the stand will last. The main material for the stand is PVC (sheet plastic). But not all plastics are the same! For example, "Chinese"-made plastics have a more porous structure and, as a result, are more brittle than plastics (PVC) produced in Germany, Hungary, and Israel. IN Lately became very popular plastics (PVC) Russian manufacturers, the quality of which also leaves much to be desired. So what is the difference between "Chinese" plastics (PVC) and non-Chinese ones? Everything is very simple. The difference is in the quality of the plastic itself (PVC)! As is known all polymer-containing materials (plastic and plastic materials, including self-adhesive films) - cellular polycarbonate, PVC plastic, plexiglass, polystyrene can change their appearance under the influence of different temperatures. So "Chinese" plastic (PVC) is the most subject to change. It is very brittle at low temperatures (from 0°C), and too soft at high temperatures (+25°C and above) and as a result of change appearance very noticeable. If over time your stand has become "wavy", or a corner has broken off during installation, you should know that Chinese plastic was used in the production of your stand.

The second, no less important component of the information stand are the pockets (files) located on the base. Pockets are made from organic glass(PMMA), transparent polyethylene (PET) or transparent plastic (PVC), and are attached to the base with double-sided tape or special glue (depending on the purpose of the information stand). To date, the most popular material for the manufacture of pockets (files) is transparent PVC with a thickness of 0.6 mm. This is a fairly durable material and at the same time it is relatively inexpensive, for example, than a pocket made of plexiglass (PMMA). When designing an information stand, it is important to consider the size of the pocket, as it is different from the size of the sheet placed inside it! So, for example, a pocket for an A4 sheet (210x297) will have a size of (225x305) mm. Specialists of the company "Obavoka" will be happy to help you in the development of information stands for your tasks!

The third component of the booth is its "cap", the name of the booth. The hat is made of PVC film of various colors using plotter cutting or large format printing.

I would like to say that this is it, the stand is ready! But it's not. The most important thing is ahead - to make an information stand with your own hands!

First you need to make a sketch of the future stand, observing the dimensions and placement of pockets on the stand. It is important to consider the distance between the pockets and the indentation from the edge of the base. It is recommended to make a distance between pockets of 20 mm in horizontal and vertical rows. Indent from the edge of the base to the pocket 30 mm. The booth cap usually has a height of 100 mm.

From the tool: a metal square, a stationery knife, a felt squeegee (you can do without it), a metal ruler.

Let's get started!

Using a square, we make markings on the sheet material, since it is important that the stand is "in the corner", and cut out the base with a clerical knife and a metal ruler. To do this, we apply the ruler to the markup and use a clerical knife to make a cut. It is important not to try to cut the material the first time, otherwise you can ruin the base. With smooth movements, draw a clerical knife along the ruler, each time increasing the pressure on the blade. Then the cut will turn out even and neat. Repeat the action on four sides.

Next, we apply (roll) a hat. To do this, place the cap (sticker) at the top of the base and fix it with a small weight, such as a small weight. At the same time, turn the base itself with the upper part towards you, for convenience. While pressing the sticker against the base with your left hand, gently lift the right side of the sticker from the base by about 10 centimeters. Separate the backing from the sticker by 5 centimeters and fold it inward. Using a felt squeegee, roll the separated part of the cap to the base. Next, gradually removing the substrate, apply a cap to the base.

Remaining pockets. We take a ruler and mark out the location of the pockets on the basis of the stand. Next, we place the pockets on the basis, according to the markup. Pressing the pocket firmly against the base with your left hand, lift the edge of the pocket with your right hand and remove the protective tape from the adhesive tape, after which we fix the edge of the pocket on the base by pressing the edge of the pocket with your right hand. The pocket is fixed. We do the same with the two remaining sides of the pocket and the rest of the pockets on the stand!

That's all! Your stand is ready! It remains to place it indoors.

PS. The company "Obavoka" uses sheet plastics (PVC) for the manufacture of stands of only world brands High Quality! Also in our company you can buy sheet plastic for stands, pockets for stands and caps for them.

Now you understand what stands for schools are made of, information stands for hospitals, information stands for parents in kindergarten, an information stand at an enterprise, a stand in Kindergarten.

If you want to order ready-made stands - please contact our company! We use only high-quality materials, and your stand can be made very quickly! IN individual cases within a few hours!

I hope that this information was helpful to you!

If your child goes to kindergarten, or if you yourself go there as an employee of the teaching staff, then sooner or later you will definitely be puzzled by the problem of creating stands for kindergarten. And the thing is that most kindergartens simply cannot afford ready-made stands. So parents and educators, headed by the head of the preschool educational institution, have to somehow solve this problem on their own or with their own means. And, we will notice, many in this business very much succeed! And they find a solution that is quite predictable, namely, they make stands for kindergarten with their own hands. How? And this is what we are going to find out now.

Where to begin?

In fact, coping with this problem through the joint efforts of parents, children and educators is quite simple. The main thing is to generate ideas. However, our educators, who work almost on sheer enthusiasm, have no problems with this. What stands can a kindergarten need? These are information or thematic stands. Information stands designed primarily for parents, and thematic for children.

Information about the daily routine, menus, announcements and news is posted on the stands for parents. Stands for children are used as visual didactic materials. They help in the education and development of kindergarten students, and also play an important role in interior design. Therefore, depending on the purpose, stands can be made from different materials. And, of course, you need to start with the search for materials and the further implementation of the generated ideas.

Information stands

It turns out that information stands are much easier to make than thematic ones. The choice is limited here. What stands can be offered to parents for review? “For you, parents”, “Menu”, “Our birthdays”, “Schedule of classes”, “Daily routine”, “Announcements” and some other information stands standard for kindergarten.

If the kindergarten is not able to purchase ready-made stands, then you can make them yourself. To do this, use any flat surface, starting from the wall and ending with boards made of chipboard or plywood. In addition, you will also need wallpaper or self-adhesive film, patch letters cut out of cardboard or colored paper, and patch pockets made of transparent hard or soft materials. It can be purchased pockets industrial production, home-made pockets from the same plexiglass or pockets made from a frame-frame with a transparent film stretched over it.

In the end, you can use ordinary colored holders on needles (for wooden stands) or on magnets (for metal shields). In this case, it is quite possible to do without pockets by attaching sheets of information directly to the stand. You can do without pockets by also making frames from polymer construction moldings or ceiling plinths. Such frames (as well as letters or pockets) are attached to the stands with double-sided adhesive tape and can always be easily replaced or moved to another place.

And as a decor, you can use drawings cut out of wallpaper (with a children's print), and decoretto film (decorative wall stickers) with thematic images, and printouts of drawings downloaded from the Internet or made in Photoshop. You can also decorate stands with improvised materials: braid or ribbons, appliqués, collages. However, this already depends on the individual abilities of parents and educators.

Thematic stands

Thematic stands on manufacturing technology almost do not differ from information. But there are so many more options for decorating them! The basis of the themed stand is a shield, which should be strong but light, as it will probably have to be moved when used for classes. Such a base can be a sheet of plywood or chipboard, plexiglass or ordinary ceiling tiles. The last option is not the easiest, but the cheapest. The tiles are firmly glued together, forming a shield of the desired size, and then this shield is pasted over with wallpaper or self-adhesive film.

In the design of the stands, you can use almost any materials that are safe for children. These can be drawings, and printouts, and applications, and fabrics, and natural material (shells, cones, straws, etc.). For example, for an astronomical stand, you can use black glossy self-adhesive and dark blue or silver embossed wallpaper. The sun and planets can also be cut out of paper, textured wallpaper or the same ceiling tiles, cover acrylic paints or gouache or covered with multi-colored self-adhesive film. The orbits of the planets on such a stand can be laid out using colored cords or yarn, and the same mittens or sunglasses will generally come in handy for the “Seasons” stand.

But the stand "My Motherland" will not require special efforts from educators and parents in the design. For example, in the center of the stand, you can place a map of the country, which is easy to buy in a bookstore or print on a color printer. The image of the coat of arms can also be printed. The words of the national anthem can also be printed or typed from overhead letters. And the highlight of such a stand will be the flag - a real canvas of the flag, made of real fabric.

The Time of Day stand can be made interactive with a real clock face and moving hands. For the “Learning to count” stand, you can use a metal shield, decoretto film and ordinary fridge magnets in the form of animals, which will be used instead of numbers when teaching counting. And such magnets can be made from salt dough or plastic.

In a word, how many dreamers, so many fantasies! By the way, children turn out to be very useful assistants not only in the manufacturing process, but also at the stage of generating ideas. So do not neglect their help. After all, all this is done, first of all, for them, and children's eyes, which see the world in a completely different way than adults, will look at these stands.

Anna Svetlichnaya

Dear colleagues!

In connection with the introduction of the Federal State Educational Standard, the task educator organize work with parents, one of the forms of which is information corners. I want to bring to your attention stand making master class"Nobody is forgotten, nothing is forgotten!"

First, we need to develop a layout. I did it in PowerPoint

To work we need...

Width of our stand 1 meter, i.e. 2 tiles.

Since the layout is 4 wavy stripes, then 1 template is suitable for both the concave and the convex part, only upside down.

Apply the template to tiles, circle with a pencil.

top cut tiles

and apply to the bottom of the part, combine, so that the cut coincides, and when we assemble booth I didn't have to tweak the details.

We turn the part over, circle it and cut it out from another tiles, then the details will match.

Details are best immediately numbered on the reverse side. Thus, 4 strips are cut, each of which consists of 2 parts.

For painting, mix color with PVA glue, achieving the desired shade. We color the parts according to the numbering, not forgetting to paint over the edges.

Name booth typing on a computer, making templates, tracing and cutting out tiles.

We also need flowers. We make a template.

We will have flowers voluminous. To do this, we will have to cut the template several times.

First, cut off the cup from the flower. We circle on tile received details.

Then we cut the cup into 2 parts, circle the smaller one, cut it out.

We cut off the upper part from the flower template, circle the resulting part on tiles.

We cut off another part of the template and circle the very bottom of the flower on tiles.

It turns out bulk flower.

Now let's paint all the details with the desired color. When the paint is dry glue it together "The Dragon". Details of flowers are glued together on the reverse side with scraps tiles.

More for making booth we need the Eternal Flame. In our case, the picture is cut out, glued with a pencil glue and laminated with adhesive tape. Cut out with a clerical knife, retreating from the edge of the picture a couple of mm.

Now we will deal with the pockets that are needed to place information. They can be made from: files, corners, folders, or you can buy ready-made ones. We will make pockets from folders. The folder needs to be cut.

With the help of self-adhesive paper, we make a frame. Glue double sided tape on the reverse side.

Now let's collect our stand. Parts are fastened together on the reverse side with scraps tiles and glue"The Dragon".Then we place our details on it: pockets, flowers, letters and Eternal Flame. Fill in the pockets with information.

I decided to somehow make a couple of rotary stands, as in the photo. Usually these are used for hanging satin ribbons on reels. Height 220 cm, width 50 cm - so, the thing is not small.

The stand must be swivel. I had to break my head a bit. It was necessary to select a pipe, a bearing and a washer so that together they would form a swivel assembly (the design of the swivel assembly itself will be presented later). At the beginning, I thought that I could just pick them up to each other "in place", but very soon I realized the viciousness of this path and went to study literature.

After considering different combinations, I chose the best option:

From "GOST 3262-75. Steel water and gas pipes." chose a pipe - "sorokovka" with an outer diameter of 48.

The frame of the stand is made of profile pipe 25x25x1.5. Legs from a pipe 20x40x2. Crossbeams from a bar 7 mm.

From "GOST 7872-89. Single and double thrust ball bearings." chose bearings of the 8210 series with an inner diameter of 50.

In "GOST 11371-78. Washers." I found washers d48 with accuracy class A and an inner diameter of 50.

But if there were no problems with the pipe and bearings, then the M48 washers of accuracy class A are not too hot commodity. Couldn't find any for sale.
I found Leirus Business Center LLC on the Internet, located in my city, which had these washers in the price list on the site. I called the specified phone number, but their managers are strange. What is the minimum order, how many pieces are in the package, what is the price per package and what is the delivery time, it was not possible to find out. I'm not talking about what accuracy class according to GOST 11371-78 their washers belong to.

I solved the problem with washers simply - I turned to a turner, who turned them for 70 rubles apiece.

Unfortunately, I don't have pipe clamps. But it is important to accurately set the angles and distances between the frame elements. To do this, I cut out a template from plywood with the required dimensions and exact angles and simply fixed the profile pipes on it with clamps.

Yes, and there is no bed for the grinder either. Therefore, the cutting of parts is not always ideal.

But after welding, everything falls into place. Boiled with Monolith 2 mm electrodes. Current 50 A with a margin.

Thanks to a simple template, we managed to get a good result.

We clean the seams with a grinder.

Using the same template, I set up the vertical racks of the frame. It wasn't perfect, but acceptable.

One of the elements of the swivel mechanism is a washer, which is located at the bottom of the frame and which rests on the bearing. It is mounted on four segments, which must be welded accurately enough. To do this, at the beginning we weld the first crossbar at the bottom of the frame.

Now we weld the second crossbar

And having made the same sections, we place the puck in the center

We fix the washer by welding.

In the upper part of the frame there is another crossbar with a piece of pipe welded perpendicular to it. This piece of pipe will also become an element of the swivel frame in the future.
Part of the future stand is ready. Let's call this part "Rotor" because that's what will rotate.

Adjustable feet will be welded on the ends of the legs. Drilled holes for them.

I made another template from the same plywood. It fixes the position of the legs relative to the lower edge of the column and the angle of the legs.

It also fixes the position of the leg relative to the axis of the column.

Using a square, set the position of the legs relative to each other

After work, the template was slightly charred at the welding points, but still quite suitable.

I welded a washer on the stator at the bottom. The thrust bearing will rest on this washer, and the rotor washer on it.

In the upper part of the stand, it was necessary to insert some kind of bushing into the pipe so that the thinner pipe would swell freely in it. Wherein lathe I don't have either. I had to scratch my head a little more.
As a result, for the manufacture of the sleeve, I took a plastic coupling for polyethylene pipes 32 mm. It fits perfectly into the "sorokovka" water and gas pipe. The connection is tight, but it can be disassembled by hand.

Via drilling machine adjusted the inner diameter of the bushing. Just in case, so that the plastic does not melt and spoil the forstner drill, I set the minimum speed on the machine - everything went smoothly.

I sawed off the extra parts with a hacksaw and that's it - the sleeve is ready

The rotary mechanism works perfectly - nothing dangles, does not creak, it works smoothly. This is clearly seen in the video:

Now we need to give it all a presentable look. First of all, peel off the rust.

Before painting, we protect the adjustable legs and their threads from paint.

And finally, we paint. It was real torment. The fact is that parts of the stands occupied the entire space in the workshop. They had to be painted in parts and rearranged all the time, because they could not be approached from all sides. As a result, in some places, the fresh coating was damaged from an accidental touch, either with the elbow, or with the back, or with something else. So also the omnipresent experience added inconvenience.
Therefore, I had to expand the workshop a little and start another room - for painting. More about it here:
Now painting jobs do not cause too many problems and do not take too much time.

Some difficulties arose when painting the crossbars. They are made from 7mm bar. At the beginning, the strategy was as follows: lay them out on a plane, apply paint with an airbrush, let dry. Then turn them over on the other side and apply paint again with an airbrush. For the third time, the bars should be painted over on all sides. So it was in theory.

But in practice, the bars could not be turned to the other side. Because they are crooked and this curvature always tends to take a lower position. After laying the second layer and seeing that I paint almost the same side, I decided to paint the rods by hand. Oh, and what a chore it is! Two coats took almost two full days.

It was no less dreary to install almost five hundred rod holders, screwing almost a thousand self-tapping screws with a drill into them. By the way, it was not easy to buy them. I had to wander in search of the right amount of identical rod holders.

After installing the rod holders on the frame, we make the final assembly of the stands. At the bottom, the swivel mechanism consists of two washers separated by a bearing. This node holds the entire vertical load.

In the upper part, the rotary mechanism consists of two pipes inserted one into the other and separated by a plastic sleeve. This node holds lateral loads.

It remains to cut the crossbars

And install them in the rod holders

Turntables are almost ready.

There is one more detail left. In the upper part of the stand there is a box, which is put on top and logos are applied to the walls. I decided to make it from 18mm plywood, although Gamma, which served as a prototype, makes it from tin.

In the upper part of the box on the inside there is a ledge with which it is held on the frame of the stand.

I painted the boxes in my new paint brushes, the link to which is above in this article.
The first layer on a tree always lays down disgustingly - bald spots, a pile that has risen and other joys of a painter.
Therefore, I usually put two layers (and sometimes more) with intermediate polishing of the coating with an abrasive sponge. The first primer layer can be diluted with a stronger solvent so that it is absorbed deeper into the wood.

The second layer goes much better.

The stands turned out great. In some places even better than the prototype. In general, the joy of a job well done is present))