Laundry soap recipe with pork fat. Slippery topic: how to make homemade soap

Ash soap making lesson

I have long wanted to make natural soap from scratch. But, unfortunately, lye is not sold in our soap making shop. So I thought, before, after all, they somehow cooked soap on lye obtained by leaching ash.

They washed with lye, washed not only our great-great-grandmothers. she told me that during the war, and even after, it was simply impossible to buy soap, not only toilet, but even household soap. And they burned wood. Unfortunately, I didn't ask her how to make lye properly. The Internet describes ways to get lye for making soap, but not all of them are acceptable for a city apartment. And I love to experiment. I will describe how I made lye.

1 way cold. I made lye in a glass jar exactly as described on the Internet. She poured 2/3 cans of ash and poured 1/3 of the water. In the first day, I interfered several times. Then I didn't touch it for two days. Carefully poured into plastic bottles, filtering at the same time. For the filter, I used cotton wool, which I put in a funnel. The solution is clear and bright.

2 way hot. I took the ash in the same proportions as with the cold method. Boiled on low heat for 3 hours. The solution is light, slightly brown. When boiling, part of the water evaporates, so it is not easy to drain the finished lye. They advise with a rubber pear, but the ash from the ash still gets into the solution. I poured with a ladle. Of course I filtered it.

But such a lye is not suitable for making soap. The concentration is too low. In addition, when boiling, part of the water evaporates, it is difficult to drain and not much solution is obtained.

So I did it differently. I poured 4 handfuls of ash into a saucepan (I have a 5 liter one), poured 2.5 liters of water. About 5 centimeters still remain from the edge of the pan, it does not splash out when boiling. Boiled over low heat, stirred several times. The finished solution is about one and a half liters. Having thus made two portions of lye, the third was poured with lye already prepared earlier and boiled again for 3 hours. I boil in the evening, overnight the solution settles well and can be drained. The concentration of lye is stronger. It was possible to repeat it again with a new portion of ash, but I ran out of it.

Another way to make lye told mother my girlfriend. It consists in the following: the same amount of water is passed each time through a new portion of the ash until a strong lye is obtained. It becomes thick. To wash your hair, it is enough to pass water through the ash once and you do not need to dilute it.

What conclusions did I draw? I'll break it all down.

Soap needs strong lye. At home, you can get it by boiling the ash or passing it through a new portion of the ash several times.

The concentration of lye depends on the burning of which plant ash was obtained. Most of all, the content of CO2 in the ashes of sunflower stalks: 30-35% and buckwheat straw: 25-35%. In birch ash 10-12%.

For washing dishes, washing, lye obtained in a cold way is quite suitable.

As far as security is concerned, either method can be used. When boiled, there is no strong smell.

When washing and washing dishes, it is better to use gloves - the skin dries a little. Maybe I just diluted a little.

Store the finished lye in a glass jar. I left in plastic bottle started leaking after three days. Conclusion: lye corrodes plastic.

But for those who don’t have ash, and it’s a long time to wait until summer, I’ll tell you about another way to make lye. Barbecue coals are now sold in shops. In principle, this is also ash, only not completely burnt. I have a few of these coals left from the summer and I decided to find out what would happen. Prepared hot and cold. The alkaline solution is very weak. But you can use it for washing dishes.

I do not advise using the hot method: the solution turns out to be gray, dirty. You can filter, but is it worth the time?
Read more:http://lyubovm.ru/kak-sdelat-shhelok/#ixzz2vMxN17Wk

There are many master classes on how to make natural soap with lye, but I did not find how to make natural soap with lye. If you also have a question about how to make soap at home on ash lye, you may find something useful for yourself.

Since I did not find a clear step-by-step plan for making soap, I experimented myself. I took the ratio 1:2 as a basis, i.e. 1 part fat and 2 parts lye. I made my first soap with lye, which I cooked by boiling once. The second soap was already brewed on a stronger lye.

I took 300 grams of pork fat and 600 ml of lye. The fat was taken already prepared, melted. After about an hour, the saponification process begins.


First, a liquid is formed that looks like milk. With further boiling, the solution brightens. The fat, which first floats above the lye, gradually emulsifies and the mass begins to thicken.

When cooking, be sure to stir the soap periodically. At this time, you need to start adding a new portion of lye. I added 100 grams. The main thing is to make sure that all the liquid does not boil away, otherwise the soap may burn. Each new portion of liquor continues the saponification that has begun, and the mass gradually turns into a transparent mass.


With further boiling, this mass begins to thicken. The consistency is similar to liquid semolina or thick jelly.


This is soap. You can also check by taking a little mass on a spatula. Soap glue flows in a thin stream, and the emulsion drops.



After receiving soap glue, I started salting with table salt. Salting should be done very carefully, adding salt in small portions. Salt should be scattered over the entire surface and mixed without touching the bottom of the pan. Add a new portion of salt after the previous one has reacted.


As soon as the soap becomes like a curd mass and floats up, the salting is stopped.

During the salting, soap cannot be removed from the fire, you can simply reduce the fire.

I can't name the exact amount of salt. It took me about a tablespoon. It probably depends on the composition of the starting materials, the strength of the lye. It took me a little more to salt the olive oil. The main thing is better in small portions, mix well and do not rush with a new portion of salt until the previous one has completely entered. When adding the first portion of salt, the soap glue becomes liquid at first, but with the addition of new portions, the soap peels off.

After salting, leave the pot with soap for several hours so that the brine exfoliates. I left it overnight.

Then the soap must be carefully separated from the brine, and poured with a new portion of lye. I took this time in a ratio of 1:1. You can add 50 grams more lye for every 100 grams of soap. I read from 100 grams of fat you get 150 grams of soap. It really is. But you can weigh.


start of saponification at the second brew

The second cooking takes less time, about 2.5 hours. It all depends on how well the saponification went the first time.



Then we repeat the procedure: salting, settling and sound soap is ready. Salting this time should be carried out until the soap pops up. The curd mass should not turn out, just a thick mass. I left it to stand for one and a half to two hours. Then the soap must be separated from the brine. In order to better separate the resulting sound soap, I laid it out in a colander, previously covered with a napkin.

Leave for one and a half to two hours. Then you can lay out in forms. In forms, I left for a day. Then take it out and leave to dry.

When cooking soap on fat, foam is formed. If you want to get a better sound soap, it is better to remove it. For best results, you can also boil and salt the soap several times.

I can’t tell if the soap should be left to mature or used right away. I did not find exact information. But haven't used it yet. It is possible to make better quality toilet soap from the resulting sound soap. It is from this soap that high-quality grades of toilet soap are made.

If my lesson on soap making helps you answer the question of how to make soap at home, I will be very happy.

And here's what I got:



100% pork fat soap



Olive oil soap. Very soft, lathers well.


This is my first creation. Here I collected, like an old woman on a bun: in the refrigerator. Fat and margarine creamy. Then I melted it, which was already ready, and added 2 tablespoons of olive oil, 1 tablespoon of camelina oil and flavored with lavender. I gave a piece to my friends for "tasting".

So, the recipe for homemade fat soap, in a hot way.

OILS (1000 g of oils = 1200 g of finished soap):
fat 100 g
coconut oil 200 g
olive oil 400 g
palm oil 200 g
palm kernel oil 100 g

WATER: 33% 330 g
lactic acid 2% 20 g
citric acid 2% 20 g
ALKALINE: 95+22 = 117 g
SF 2% to calculator
and +5% in excess fat 50 g (sweet almond oil)

SOAP ADDITIVES: various
PERFUME: optional
maple syrup (USA) 20 g
or "Chanel" (USA) 20

The basic recipe uses goose fat. Additive for color and use: sea buckthorn powder. Fragrance: maple syrup. Delicate, soft, care soap, with a fine fine bubble foam.

The basic recipe uses badger fat. Additive for color and use: indigo powder. Fragrance: maple syrup. It also perfectly cares for and nourishes the skin of the face, hands and body.

The basic recipe uses mutton fat. Additives for color and benefits: vanilla and sea buckthorn powder. Perfume: "Chanel" double portion, because. even through the powder of natural vanilla, a specific smell was perceptible. Perhaps the most foamy and fragrant soap turned out.

And finally, as they say, the “hit of the season” is soap with mink oil in the basic recipe. Additives for color and benefits: barley and turmeric powders. Perfume: Chanel. The most. Gently and gently cleanses while nourishing and smoothing the skin. Does not require the application of a cream after washing with this soap.

In a word, hand-made soap using animal fats is an order of magnitude superior to soap made only from vegetable oils in terms of its qualities and sensations. Of course, this is just my opinion. At the same time, I do not stop making soap without fats. And I admire every time, taking out a new copy from among the ripe ones, cooked in a cold way back in the spring! But, mink soap conquered my skin!

Beef, lamb, pork, horse lard, bone, whale and fish oil, fat waste from various industries were used to make soap. Vegetable oils were also added - linseed, cottonseed, olive, almond, sesame, coconut and palm.

To make soap we need: caustic soda - 2 kg; lard (unsalted) - 12.8 kg.

To prepare solid soap, we take caustic soda and dissolve it in 8 liters of water, bringing the solution to 25 0 C. After that, pour it into the melted and then cooled to a temperature of 50 0 C fat. Thoroughly mix the resulting mass until it becomes completely homogeneous. Next, pour the liquid mixture into separate boxes, wrapped in felt and put in a warm and dry place for 4-5 days. Soap is ready.

In order to make the soap more foamy, then 4 should be added to the indicated amount of water.

00g purified potash

To make potash, you need to take wood ash or weed ash and sift it through a sieve, then sprinkle it, wet it and mix it until you get a uniformly moistened mass of ash. After that, the ash is collected in a heap. A recess is made on top for adding lime, which is quenched by the presence of moisture. Lime should be taken in half the amount of the weight of the ash taken. When the lime disintegrates into a fine powder, cover with ash, then pour water over it and leave for 24 hours, after which we drain the lye. This is the first lye, the most concentrated. We put it in a special vessel, and then we still break the ash with water, drain it and get a weaker lye. When this lye is ready, pour the stronger one into the cauldron and heat it to a boil. Then it remains only to add fat.

For to get liquid soap, it is necessary to dissolve the same amount of caustic potassium in 2 kg of water, bringing the solution to 25 0 degrees. After that, it is mixed with lard and the same procedure is performed as in the first case.

In small industries, it is sometimes used to make soap. potash liquor, which can be obtained by processing the liquor obtained by leaching wood ash with water with caustic lime. The following is method of cooking soap on potash lye.

Salo (mutton or beef) is placed in a cauldron for cooking, potash lye is added (at 8 ° Bome) and a fire is made or steam is allowed. When the lye and lard are heated, a milk-like liquid (emulsion) is formed when stirred; with further heating, a transparent soap solution mixed with fatty specks appears, and soon the process of saponification begins. The onset of this moment is determined by the yellowish-brown color of the mass, which boils and swells from time to time. Taken on a stirrer, the solution gives a gelatinous gray-white mass that does not emit lye. In this state, the mass contains a large amount of unsaponified fat and is not yet soap. If you start to evaporate it, then it will turn into a gray thick mass, soluble only after the addition of lye. Therefore, more lye is added to the mass calmly boiling in the boiler, and in total they take approximately 2/3 total lye at 8 ° Bome and 1/3 of its amount at 20 ° Bome. The addition of lye is continued until a thick, homogeneous, light mass appears in the cauldron, flowing down from the oar in the form of long and transparent sticky drops or stretching threads, which means that the soap has boiled (according to soap makers) into glue.

By the type of glue, you can judge did you get a complete saponification and whether the amount of alkali in relation to fat was taken correctly. If you put a little soap glue on the glass, then the sample should remain transparent for some time if cooked correctly. become cloudy only when cold.If the sample becomes cloudy quickly or a gray edge immediately turns out, then there is still unsaponified fat in the soap glue or too much lye has been added, which caused the release of solid soap. These shortcomings can easily be corrected by adding lye or lard.

If the glue is transparent, but a sample taken on the tongue gives at least a slight burning sensation, then the glue continues to be boiled until, due to the evaporation of water, it drains in the form of a thread when the oar is removed from the mass. Then they begin to salt out the soap from its solution by means of table salt, and at the same time, in the case of using potassium liquor for saponification, the transformation of potassium soap into sodium soap occurs. Salt is added to the glue gradually, in small portions and with weak boiling of the adhesive solution. Already the first portion of salt causes the transformation of the glue into a liquid, with the addition of subsequent portions, the coagulation of the soap occurs, which rises in the form of a thick mass to the surface. In the liquid separated from the soap, in the so-called settled lye, in addition to the added common salt, potassium chloride obtained by converting potassium soap into sodium soap, as well as glycerin released during saponification, is contained.

Salting out must be done very carefully, because if the salt is not added enough, part of the soap remains in the settled lye, and if the salt is added too much, the soap is released too quickly, as a result of which small lumps are formed that are difficult to connect with each other and absorb the lye. Properly salted soap should boil in plates and, raised in a hot state by an oar, should linger on it in the form of soft flakes. The lye should flow easily and be transparent; when rubbed between the fingers, it should not feel like an ointment. The taste of the settled liquor should be salty-sweet and not give a sensation of even a slight burning sensation.

At the end of salting and removal of fire or after the cessation of steam, the well-separated liquor is allowed to flow out through the drain cock in the boiler, or the entire contents of the boiler are poured into a cooling vessel, where the mass is allowed to stand quietly until the liquor is completely separated. In the meantime, a very weak lye is poured into an empty cauldron and the soap carefully separated from the settled lye is again placed, which now dissolves in the lye with low heat and turns into a transparent glue. Once again, the soap glue obtained in this way is carefully salted out with a small amount of salt. Then they proceed to the next operation, by which excess water is removed from the soap, the last particles of fat are saponified and the soap turns into a solid mass without foam. Soap in this state forms a homogeneous compact mass; this ends the cooking of soap. After removing from the fire or after the steam has ceased, the soap is allowed to stand for several hours to release the settling lye and the soap is poured into molds.

To cause arising under these conditions marbling, you can mix in a little elutriated bolus (Siena earth), ultramarine, etc. If you want to get smooth soap, then it is polished with hot water, as a result of which the soap becomes more liquid and the dirt that was in it passes into settled lye. The amount of soap obtained increases somewhat with grinding.

From 100 g of fat, 150 g of unpolished sound soap is obtained, while after grinding the same soap weighs 160 g.

Soap obtained by using potash liquor is more gentle and softer than pure sodium soaps, since potash soap is partially resistant to salting out with table salt and therefore turns into heart soap, but it is much more expensive, since potash lye is more expensive than soda lye of the same percentage; in addition, the rise in price is also affected by the fact that for saponification of fats it is necessary to take a larger amount of potash liquor than sodium liquor. To saponify 100 kg of fat, you need to spend approximately 19.5 kg of caustic potash or 14 kg of caustic soda. At present (1923), the use of potash liquor is very limited, and it is used mainly in the manufacture of shaving soaps

Production of ordinary soap

1. Handicraft soap making. Take wood ash, or ash from weeds, and sift it through a sieve, then scatter it, moisten it, and mix it until a uniformly moistened mass of ash radiates. After that, it is collected in a pile, in which a recess is formed on top. In the latter, lime is put, which is quenched from the presence of moisture. Lime should be taken in half the amount of the weight of the ash taken. When the lime breaks down into a fine powder, it is covered with ash. Then pour water over and leave for 24 hours, after which the lye is drained. This is the first lye, the most concentrated. It is placed in a special vessel, and then the ashes are poured over again with water, drained and a weaker lye is obtained. When this lye is ready, the stronger one is poured into the cauldron and heated to a boil.

Next, an appropriate amount of various fatty wastes is added to the lye and boiled, adding a weaker lye, until the sample taken on a glass plate solidifies into a transparent sticky mass. In this way, a liquid potash soap, commonly called soap glue, is obtained. To turn the soft mass into a solid, dense soap, boiled salt is added to the soap glue. In this case, the so-called soap core is released, which is a solid, soda soap.

After adding boiled salt, the resulting heart soap is scooped out, as well as lye, after which the soap is placed again in the cauldron, boiled again with thicker liquor, salted again, scooped out and placed in boxes lined with linen; when the excess lye adhering to the soap collects in drops on the bottom of the box, turn it over, take out the soap, cut it into pieces and dry it in the air.

For the manufacture of soap, it is better, of course, to take not ash and lime, but directly caustic soda.

2. Cooking plain soap- solid and liquid. a) To prepare solid soap, take 2 kg of caustic soda, dissolve in 8 kg of water, bring the solution to 25 ° C and pour it into melted and cooled to 50 ° C lard (lard must be unsalted and its 12 kg 800 g is taken per specified amount of water and soda). The resulting liquid mixture is thoroughly stirred until the whole mass becomes completely homogeneous, after which it is poured into wooden boxes, well wrapped in felt, and placed in a warm, dry place. after 4-5 days, the mass hardens, and the soap is ready. If you want to have a more foamy soap, then add another 500 g of purified potash to the indicated amount of water or take 2 kg less fat and add the same amount of coconut oil instead.

B) for cooking liquid soap dissolve the same amount of crude caustic potash in 2 kg of water, bring the solution to 25 ° C and mix thoroughly with 8 kg of unsalted lard, previously melted and cooled to 50 ° C. Then proceed as above.

Good afternoon friends!

Today we have a soap experiment.

Firstly, this was the first time I used lactic and citric acids in a soap recipe.
Secondly, I brewed today's soap using animal fat, namely - pork lard(aka lard). Forgive me, animal rights activists.

And now about everything in order and with details.

Pork lard (lard)- this is melted visceral fat. I stumbled upon it in the market when I was choosing meat to take home. Of course I bought it, because it's always interesting to try something new.

Judging by the fatty acid composition of pork fat, lard-based mono-soap will not have a very good cleansing rate, but the soap will be solid, with stable foam and good conditioning properties.

Fatty acid composition of pork fat:

Palmitic acid 28%
Oleic acid 46%
Stearic acid 13%
Linoleic acid 6%
Myristic acid 1%

Recipe for soap with pork fat (lard):

Pork fat 35%
Castor oil 5%
Coconut oil 20%
Palm oil 25%
Almond oil 15%
Overfat I took 7%
Water to oil 33%
Citric acid 2%
Lactic acid 3%
Perfume lilac 10 ml
Dry pigments, glycerin for their dispersion
Alkali (NaOH) is calculated using a calculator, and we also take an additional alkali to neutralize acids.

0.6 g additional alkali per 1 g citric acid and 0.36 g alkali per 1 g lactic acid

I made soap late at night, when all my large family had gone to bed, so I worked quickly and didn’t have much time for photographing.
I hope a simple description of my actions will be enough for understanding.

Let's get started.

1. First of all, I measured the required amount of oils (liquid and solid) and put the butters in a water bath to melt;

2. While the oils are melting, I prepared solutions of acids and alkalis.
I decided not to risk it, and prepared separate solutions of alkali and acids from the estimated amount of water for the soap recipe. I took some water, diluted citric acid in it, added lactic acid there. Separately, in the remaining water, I prepared an alkaline solution.

3. When the alkaline solution cooled down a bit (to about 50 degrees), I poured the acid solution into it.

4. After I mixed all the oils. Melted solid and liquid. Left them to cool.

5. While the oils and alkaline solution are cooling, I diluted the dry pigments in glycerin.
I wrote about how to do this in this article.

6. When the alkaline solution and the oils were about the same temperature (I got it: the alkaline solution was 35 degrees, the oils were 40 degrees), I mixed the oils and the alkali.
I worked as a blender, as usual. Whip a little, then stir, alternating these actions, I bring the soapy mass to a light trace.
I want to note that despite the significant content of solid oils in the recipe, the mass turned out to be quite liquid. So much so that I was even able to "swirl" a little.

7. I divided the soap mass into 4 parts. I painted half white. The second half of the mass was divided into three more parts and painted them green, pink and lilac.

9. I poured the colors into the mold one by one from a height, so that the layer would break through the ones already poured into the mold:
- more white
- pink;
- green;
- lilac;

Repeat several times.
From above, pour gently (without punching) white, decorate with droplets of different colors, draw with a stick (only from above, without penetrating deep into the form).

Tap the mold on the table to remove air bubbles.

10. In conclusion, I put the soap in the oven for an hour at 50 degrees to go through the gel stage. While the soap was "gelling", I washed all the dishes and went to bed satisfied with myself)))

This is the batch I got:

I hope you can easily repeat my steps and cook pork fat soap for yourself according to this recipe. If you have any questions, I am always ready to answer them in my group

Cooked in Russia soap since ancient times. Cooked in workshops and at home. For the manufacture of soap used beef, lamb, lard. An old saying has survived to this day: “There was fat, there was soap.” For softness, vegetable oils, such as linseed, were added.

Entire villages were engaged in “potash trade”, this is how soap production was called in those days. Especially known both in Russia and abroad were the Valdai and Kostroma masters of soap making.

We present several ways of soap making:

1. Pour a hot strong solution of washing soda into a bottle and add drop by drop vegetable oil until it stops dissolving. Pour a little table salt into the resulting solution (the process is called salting out). Solid soap will float to the surface and is easy to pick up.

2 . Manufacture of high quality sound soap. Heating in a water bath, melt 70 g of beef fat and 30 g. lard. Then, stirring vigorously, add the heated sodium hydroxide solution (25 g of dry hydroxide to 30 g of water). Carefully! Alkali may splatter!

The resulting mixture, while stirring, heat in a water bath for 30 minutes. As it boils, add hot water. Then add 100 ml. 20% common salt solution and heat again until the soap is completely separated. If necessary, wrap the collected soap in a rag and wring it out (it is better to do this with gloves so as not to burn yourself with a strong alkali solution).

Then rinse the soap in a small amount of cold water and add a little fragrant substance dissolved in alcohol (it can be caraway, anise, fennel oil or any other). You only need a little, the smell is very strong. After that, wrap the soap in a strong cloth and knead thoroughly. And finally, slightly heat the resulting mass and press it to give it the appearance of an ordinary bar of soap.

3. Preparation of simple solid and liquid soap:

To prepare solid soap, take 2 kg of caustic soda, dissolve in 8 liters of water, bring the solution to 25 ° C and pour it into melted and cooled to 50 ° C lard (lard must be unsalted and it is taken 12 kg 800 g per specified amount of water and soda).

The resulting liquid mixture is thoroughly stirred until the whole mass becomes completely homogeneous, after which it is poured into wooden boxes, well wrapped in felt, and placed in a warm, dry place. After 4-5 days, the mass hardens and the soap is ready.

If you want to have a more foamy soap, then add another 400 g of purified potash to the indicated amount of water or take 2 kg less fat and add the same amount of coconut oil.

To prepare liquid soap, the same amount of crude caustic potassium is dissolved in 2 kg of water, the solution is brought to 25 ° C and thoroughly mixed with 8 kg of unsalted lard, previously melted and cooled to 50 ° C. then proceed as above.

4. Hot way.

As a basis for toilet soaps you can take tallow soap prepared with soda lye, or prepare it separately, using pork fat in combination with coconut oil for this. Coconut oil should be the most highest quality, and pork fat is exceptionally fresh and well-purified.

Fat is cleaned as follows: fresh fat is washed several times in cold water, cut into pieces and placed in a bag, which is hung in a cauldron of water and boiled. When the water boils and the fat dissolves, it is slightly squeezed out, and most of the fiber remains in the bag along with the garbage, the bag is taken out.

For each kilogram of a mixture of fat with water, put 4-5 g of table salt and 1-2 g of alum in powder, with a strong boil of the liquid and constant stirring. After some time, the boil is stopped and the fat is allowed to float to the surface. The resulting scale is carefully removed, filtered through a cloth into a clean vat and allowed to harden.

Thus prepared fat can be stored without change in a cool place for a long time.

To obtain a good toilet soap, for every 10 g of fat, take 5-20 g of coconut oil. The latter is added not only to reduce the cost, but also in order to "pour" it with more water.

The soap itself is made in the usual way, it is only necessary to ensure that the resulting soap is neutral, i.e. so that there is no excess of alkalis in it. For this purpose, it is salted out several times and then boiled again.

After the last salting, boiling is continued until the sample taken with a glass rod on the plate is completely satisfactory, i.e. when squeezing the mass between the fingers, solid plates should be obtained that should not break.

In order to have a perfectly pure soap, it is stirred with a pole, skimmed off the foam and poured into molds until it is transparent. The soap mass remaining at the bottom of the boiler will be less transparent and pure, and therefore it must be allowed to harden separately.

5. Cold way.

The preparation of toilet soaps in the cold way by stirring has many advantages, which mainly boil down to the fact that here the coloring and perfume are carried out simultaneously, constituting, as it were, one operation, after which it remains only to cut and shape the hardened soap mass.

To prepare soap in a cold way, coconut oil is taken, previously cleaned of random dirt, and saponified with strong soda lye at low temperature and constant stirring. In order for the resulting soap to be neutral, it is necessary to make several preliminary samples and accurately determine the quantitative ratio of fat and alkali.

When the saponification process reaches such a state that the contents of the boiler turn into a homogeneous and difficult to stir mass, then dyes and perfumes are added to it, which, after prolonged stirring, are evenly distributed throughout the mass.

6. Remelting.

The preparation of toilet soaps by melting is carried out as follows: ordinary heart soap is cut into pieces and thrown into a cauldron inserted into another cauldron with boiling water (water bath). So much water must be poured into the soap so that the sample taken has a good consistency, after which the soap is poured into molds and mixed with coloring and perfumes.

The amount of added water poured for remelting depends on the properties of the soap: for a hard, strong soap, more water is needed than when other grades are used, which already contain a lot of water. Water is generally poured so much that when it cools it turns out hard soap, strongly foaming in water.

If the soap taken for remelting is heavily contaminated, then it must be melted with a large amount of water (50-60%), and then salted and boiled.

7. Planing.

Preparation of toilet soap by planing is carried out as follows: hearty soap is turned into shavings using a special machine, collected in a wooden trough, mixed with coloring and odorous substances and then turned into a homogeneous mass on a kneading machine. The machine consists of a horizontal cylindrical drum, on the circumference of which there are 4-8 knives. Above the drum, which is driven in rotation, there is an inclined plane, on which layers of soap are placed for planing. The soap with its own weight presses on the drum, the knives of which continuously cut the chips from the soap layer. The blades are set at a significant slope and can therefore cut chips as thick as writing paper.

Here are some recipes for toilet soaps prepared in different ways.

• Almond soap. To prepare it, take 4 kg of white heart soap, finely plan it and add a little milk. The mass is poured into the cauldron, put on moderate heat and stirred until it thickens and begins to stretch. After cooling, bitter-almond oil is added and the soap is poured into a flat wooden box, on the bottom of which a linen is laid. The soap is allowed to cool, harden and then cut into pieces of the desired shape. Factories prepare almond soap from good strong liquor with twice the weight of tallow, fat, coconut or palm oil, which must be boiled down until the sample taken out, placed on a cold, smooth plate, quickly hardens.
• Pink soap. To prepare this soap, take 64 parts of coconut oil, 40 parts of tallow soap, 30 parts of water and heat this mixture for 2-3 hours, knead and add a little eosin for touch-up. Then remove from heat and stir in artificial rose oil. Soap is cast in molds.
• violet soap. To prepare this soap, which gives extraordinary softness to the skin, take 100 parts of white heart soap, 10 parts of orris root, 10 parts of dewy incense.

The soap is kneaded with water, dyed purple and violet essence is added. Then add as much starch as is necessary to give the soap a hardness, after which the soap is put into molds.

• Lemon soap. Mix with gentle heating 1 part white fatty soap, 1 part starch, dyed yellow and add lemon essence. From the resulting mass, soap is molded in special forms in the form of a lemon and tinted on top in a yellow-lemon color, dipping it in paint, like Easter eggs.
• English round soap. To prepare this soap, it is necessary to cut into small pieces 200 parts of good white heart soap and then grind in a heated porcelain mortar, adding to the mass one part of camphor. 100 parts of starch are added to the resulting batter, dyed in various delicate colors and perfumed. Flat-round pieces are formed from this mass.
• English shaving soap. This soap is prepared as follows: 100 parts of white soap are finely cut and dissolved in water to the consistency of liquid jelly. Then 10 parts of talc and 10 parts of alum powder are added, dyed cream and perfumed with musk and orange oil. This soap is cast in a cylindrical mold.