How to dye fur at home. How to dye mink fur

A LITTLE FROM HISTORY

In terms of richness of shades, natural dyes have no rivals. If you knit or weave tapestries, you should learn how to dye with natural dyes. This will help you create interesting, unique clothing patterns and unique color transitions in weaving. Vegetable dyes give such deep and soft tones that even at high intensity do not look flashy. Fabrics dyed in this way do not shed when washed, do not fade in the sun, do not harm health and do not spoil hands!

The dyeing of yarn or fabrics with natural organic dyes, which are found in plants or in certain types of insects and marine animals, has its origins in ancient times. Of the diversity of the plant world, the practice of dyeing over the centuries selected those dye plants that provided the most high quality, durability and beauty of coloring.

The range of natural dyes that give a strong red and blue color, which were considered precious at all times, is small. The best in beauty and durability were two red dyes of animal origin: purple, extracted from Mediterranean molluscs until the 19th century, and carmine, which was extracted from insects of two different types- mealybug in Europe and Asia and cochineal in South America.

The most popular red vegetable dye, not inferior in strength to carmine, was krapp, which was extracted from the roots of madder dye.

The most common blue dye - indigo, also distinguished by its special color fastness, was the only one of its kind. Indigo was obtained from a plant growing in countries with a warm climate - India, Southeast Asia. Other indigo-bearing plants from more northern latitudes did not give such an intense color, so they could not compete with indigo. Until the end of the 19th century, indigo was the only reliable blue dye for textile fibers.

Of the dyes of other colors, the favorite ones were bright yellow, which were extracted from the tropical turmeric plant and barberry roots.

Such bright and durable dyes were used to make precious fabrics, the consumers of which were only noble people.

In addition, there were many yellowish and brown dyes of different shades, which were obtained in each country from local raw materials - the roots and bark of plants of various types. These dyes were the most affordable, and therefore brown brown and soft yellow tones were considered the colors of the poor.

Natural natural dyes were used on an industrial scale until the 60s - 70s of the nineteenth century. Only the invention of aniline dyes finally supplanted the old methods of dyeing. It is interesting that at this time artificial dyes spread throughout the East. Neither the law of the Persian government, which forbade their import, nor the orders to stop work in those factories where they were used, could prevent this. The cruel punishment - to cut off the right hand of every dyer who resorted to chemistry - was soon forgotten, and after the First World War, chemical dyes were already in common use. However, ancient methods are preserved at the present time in carpet weaving and in the development of other art products manually.

Natural dyes for textile fibers are extracted from dried natural raw materials: bark, roots, wood, leaves, fruits, insects - by boiling them in water. The only exception is the indigo blue dye, which does not dissolve in water.

Most of the dyes contained in natural raw materials require the treatment of fabric or yarn with salts of various metals, mainly aluminum, copper, chromium, iron and tin, for a strong connection with the fiber. Salts of these metals are well absorbed by textile materials from aqueous solutions and, when dyed, combine with dyes to form strong color compounds of different shades on the fibers, called varnishes.

The application of metal salts to textile fibers is called etching in the dyeing technique, and metal salts are called mordants.

Dyeing with water-insoluble indigo has a special technology and is called vat dyeing. The essence of vat dyeing lies in the fact that indigo in an alkaline bath in the presence of reducing agents passes into a soluble form called a leucompound. In a light yellow alkaline solution of a leuco compound - a cube - a fabric or yarn is immersed, which is then hung in air, where it turns from yellow-greenish to blue, due to the oxidation of the leuco compound with atmospheric oxygen. When oxidized, the leuco compound turns on the fiber into the original insoluble blue dye - indigo.

Green tones were obtained in antiquity by dyeing indigo fabric or yarn blue or blue, and then with a yellow dye extracted from plants. In the same way, purple and violet tones were obtained from the coloring of indigo, dyeing blue fabrics red.

BASIC CONDITIONS AND RULES FOR DYING

1. Dyeing is carried out in a well-ventilated area.

2. Do not use for dyeing dishes in which food is cooked. Copper, aluminum, iron utensils change the shade of the fiber dyed with vegetable dyes, so etching and dyeing must be carried out in enamelled or glass crockery. Further, we will repeatedly refer to the concept - the modulus of the bath - M. The modulus of the bath is the ratio of the volume of the dye solution to the weight of the fabric being dyed. The most optimal for dyeing is a module equal to 30 or 40. This means that when dyeing or pickling 100 g of yarn, 3 or 4 liters of solution must be prepared. The container should be large enough so that the solution completely covers the yarn freely lying in it.

3. It is advisable to take rainwater or water softened with soda ash.

4. The wooden (plastic, glass) stick used to stir the material to be painted must be clean and smooth.

5. Fabric or yarn must be well moistened with water before dyeing.

PREPARATION OF TEXTILE MATERIALS FOR DYING

The material to be dyed must have good wettability. The fabric, dyed without prior thorough preparation, gives, as experts say, "non-paint".

Raw silk fabrics before dyeing, it is necessary to boil for half an hour in a solution of baby soap with the addition of soda ash (Na₂CO₃). For one liter of water - 3 g of soap, 0.25 g of soda, M = 30. After that, the silk is thoroughly washed in a hot (70 "C) solution of the following composition: 0.5 g of calgon (sodium hexametophosphate), 0.5 ml of ammonia alcohol (30 percent), 1 liter of water.Then the silk is rinsed in warm water.

Cotton and linen fabrics and threads also boiled before staining to improve wettability. For dyeing in light colors, harsh cellulose fabrics are bleached. Unbleached cotton or linen material is boiled for 1 hour before dyeing in this solution: for 1 liter of water, 2-3 g of washing soda and a few pieces (≈ 5 g) laundry soap. In this case, the water should completely cover the yarn or fabric (3 liters of water per 100 g of material). After washing, the material is rinsed 2-3 times in warm water until the soap disappears completely, which interferes with uniform coloring.

wool yarn they are wound into skeins of about 100 g each and loosely tied in three or four places with cotton or linen thread. For washing, baby soap is used, rubbed on a grater or finely chopped into shavings, then dissolved in a small amount of hot (60 "C) water. Soap solution is poured into warm water and foam is whipped. Yarn is washed in this water, wringing lightly and turning the skeins "To prevent matting, the wool does not need to be rubbed and twisted. The soap solution is usually changed several times until the water is clear. Do not make the washing solution too hot, this darkens the wool and collapses. Experience shows that synthetic detergents change shade colors, so it is better not to use them.Washed wool is thoroughly rinsed in running water, then a little table (9 per cent) vinegar is added to wash out the soap and then rinse again.

PREPARATION OF DYING DECIONS

Dyes can be obtained from branches, leaves, fruits, peel, bark, roots of plants. Both fresh plants and dried ones are used. When stained with fresh plants, brighter and more intense tones are obtained, but usually less lightfast.

The chemical composition of a plant and its parts largely depends on its age, growth, place of growth, soil composition and weather conditions during the growing season.

The shade of the dye also depends on the time of collection of plants. Leaves are harvested on June 7 - 10 (young leaves give more intense shades than mature leaves), flowers - just opened, bark - in the spring, when it is easily separated, roots and roots - either before the plant blooms, or in autumn.

Leaves, stems, roots, flowers, fruits. cones, the bark is pre-soaked in soft cold water for 12 hours (from evening to morning, for example). For every 100 g of herbs take about 1 liter of water. After that, the plants in the same water are brought to a boil and kept on a very low heat, “languish”, but do not boil. Flowers and herbs "languish" for 30 minutes, bark, stems, nut shells, roots - 2 - 4 hours.

It is not recommended to extract dyes from plants longer, as the color of the broth becomes browner. After extracting the dye, the decoction is poured into another bowl, straining it, and the plants are again filled with water to obtain a second decoction. Herbs and bark are “simmered” for about 30 minutes. Strain the second decoction into the same bowl as the first.

Then the so-called dye bath is prepared, that is, the required amount of softened water is added to the resulting broth from the calculation. for 100 g of fabric (yarn) about 4 liters of dye solution (bath module 40).

PREPARATION OF SOLUTIONS

As already noted, dyeing fabrics with vegetable dyes is not conceivable without treating the fiber with metal salts, which is called etching.

Metal salts traditionally used in dyeing are used as mordants: potassium alum, iron sulphate (oxide and ferrous), copper sulphate, zinc sulphate, potassium chromium alum, chromium peak (sodium or potassium), tin dichloride.

A solution of pickle is made at the rate of 10 g per 1 liter of water (one percent). Iron salts are always taken less - 1 g per 1 liter. Pickling is carried out in the same way as dyeing, with a modulus of M = 30. For 100 g of yarn, 3 liters of pickling solution are needed, 30 g of metal salt are dissolved in a small amount of hot water (60 ° C), filtered, poured into a dish for dyeing and adjusted solution volume up to 3 liters.

It is not recommended to wring the yarn during or after pickling, otherwise the color will be uneven.

There are also natural dressings, for example, natural formic acid, sauerkraut brine, salt, vinegar, birch ash.

1. Pretreatment

A one percent solution of mordant is prepared, clean wet yarn is dipped into it and kept at t = 60 C for 25 minutes. Then the yarn is taken out of the solution, allowed to drain, transferred to the dye decoction and “tormented” for 30 minutes at 90°C.

2. Simultaneous pickling

The prepared mordant solution is poured into the dye decoction, clean wet yarn is dipped into it. "Tomyat" 30 - 40 minutes at 60 ° C.

3. Post-treatment

First, the yarn is “tormented” in the dye broth for 30 minutes, then transferred to the prepared mordant solution and incubated for 25 minutes at 60°C.

Different etching methods affect the shade of the color. With pre-treatment, the shade of the yarn turns out to be darker, more intense.

Dyed yarn can be rinsed immediately after dyeing, or you can leave the yarn in the solution until completely cooled and then rinse in warm water with the addition of a small amount of table vinegar (1 tablespoon per 10 liters of water).

Then the yarn is lightly wrung out and hung on a stick. It is advisable to thread a second stick into the skeins, which, with its weight, pulls the yarn when it dries.

When dyed by plants, the protein fibers of silk and wool are better, more intensely dyed, and cotton and linen are weaker. To dye cotton and linen in intense colors, you need to make more concentrated dye solutions or repeat the dyeing several times.

It is advisable to do the entire dyeing procedure for a small test skein. If the resulting color does not suit you, you need to change the concentration of the decoction or mordant, take a different mordant or try a different etching method, or change the dyeing temperature.

By experimenting with solutions of different saturations and different mordants, you can get a variety of shades of color.

SUMMARY OF PLANTS THAT CAN BE USED AS DYES

Coloring matter yellow color contain:

Barberry (bark, roots, wood), birch (leaves and young bark), cornflower (stems and leaves), heather, wolfberry (bark), pomegranate (peel), oak (bark, acorns), spruce (cones), stinging nettle , buckthorn (fresh bark and branches), linden (fallen leaves), onion (husk), walnut (shell), tansy, wormwood, rhubarb (roots), chamomile (flowers), bearberry (whole plant), yarrow , tea, string.

Coloring matter Green colour contain:

Ledum, elderberry (shrub), heather (leaves and berries), St. John's wort, stinging nettle, juniper (berries), horsetail (stems), poplar (bark, branches, leaves), bird cherry (bark, branches), sorrel (leaves) .

Coloring matter of blue color contain:

Basma, woad (leaves), cornflower (flower petals), buckwheat (leaves), blackberry (berries), litmus, club moss (stems), blueberries (berries), sage (stems and leaves).

Coloring matter Brown contain:

Cherry (branches, leaves), oak (bark, acorns), horse sorrel (root dug in autumn), buckthorn (dry bark), lichen, alder (leaves, bark), onion (husk), plum (branches, leaves) .

Coloring matter of red color contain:

Elder grass (ripe berries), wolfberry (ripe berries), oregano (extracts), St. poppy (flowers), madder dye, aspen (fallen leaves), bedstraw.

Coloring matter gray color contain:

Ledum, oak (bark), spruce (cones), walnut (shell), burdock (roots).

YARN DYING IN MULTIPLE COLORS

Wind the yarn lightly into balls weighing less than 50 g and, dry, dip the balls into the dye solution. In this case, the dye should completely cover the balls. With this dyeing, the thread in the ball is obtained with a gradual transition of tone from dark to lighter. Until the yarn gets wet, it floats, so it should be pressed down with a lid from a smaller diameter pot.

If the yarn is dark and you want to get a lighter color - bleach with a gradual transition of tone, then rewind the yarn into a skein. Prepare soapy water. After hanging the skein over a stick, dip part of the skein into the soapy solution and "simmer" for 15 - 20 minutes. Then change the soapy water and, raising the end of the yarn in the water by 5 - 10 cm, hold the yarn again for 15 - 20 minutes. Bleach until the thread is the shade you want.

A knitted item made of multi-colored yarn looks beautiful. Wind the yarn into skeins of 100 g each and easily tie with cotton thread. Prepare the dye solution. Moisten 1/3 of the skein and dip into the dye. Throw the skein over the stick so that the dry end does not get into the dye. After dyeing one part, rinse the yarn and dry it. Then prepare a dye solution of a different color. Moisten 1/3 of the skein on the opposite side and repeat the dyeing process. Thus, the yarn will have three colors, counting the original.

You can dye the yarn any number of colors by decreasing the dye area as you increase the number of colors. Solutions for dyeing are prepared based on the weight of the dyed part of the yarn (2-3 liters of solution per 100 g of yarn).

Start your experiments, for example, with tansy. The coloring recipe is given for 100 g of yarn. Tansy (eight shades from one decoction!)

Soak 150 g of tansy in 2 liters of cold water for 12 hours. Bring to a boil and "simmer" over low heat for 30 - 40 minutes. Strain. Pour the cakes with a small amount of water. "To languish" 15 minutes. Strain. Combine both decoctions. Bring the amount of water to 3 liters (M = 30).

Divide 100 g of wool yarn into 8 small skeins. Each is easy to tie in 2 - 3 places with cotton thread. Dip the clean soaked yarn (all 8 skeins) into the tansy decoction. "To languish" 30 minutes.

Then prepare 1% solutions of the following dressings:

1. Potassium alum,

2. Copper sulfate,

3. Zinc sulfate,

4. Tin chloride,

5. Potassium chromium alum,

6. Potassium dichromate,

7. Iron sulfate (0.1 percent solution),

8. Iron ammonium alum (0.1 percent solution).

Etch one of the skeins in the first of the prepared solutions, that is, withstand 25 minutes at a temperature of 60 ° C. Pickle the next skein in the second solution, etc. Then rinse (you can add vinegar to revive the color).

Any silk, woolen or cellulose fabrics or yarns can be dyed in this way.

The color illustrations show samples obtained in this way of dyeing.

Over time, the fur wears out, it can burn out in places, lose color saturation. But this is not a reason to send things to the trash can. After painting, they have a good chance to start new life. Ateliers and dry cleaners may convince that old products will not withstand such exposure, or they may require a considerable amount for the procedure. We will tell you how easy and not expensive to dye fur at home.

There are several options for resolving the issue of where to give the fur for painting. They differ in price and range of services offered. Before making a decision, check which ones are available in your city.

1. In case of problems with clothes, it is customary to contact the studio. Things made of fur are no exception: there are special fur studios that you can contact with questions of repair and dyeing.
2. Some dry cleaners not only wash clothes, but also dye fabrics and fur.
3. In production, fur is dyed without fail, but on an industrial scale. Not all factories can be contacted with the question of painting an individual product.
4. It is quite easy to dye the fur yourself at home.

How can fur be dyed?

Manufacturers claim that dyeing occurs according to a complex technology using dyes and oxidizing agents. In fact, this technique is almost no different from painting in a hairdresser. It turns out that fur can be successfully updated with ordinary hair dye. Indeed, in its structure, animal hair is very similar to human hair. The described method is safe for strong mezdra (skin from the inside of the pile), reliable and easy to perform. It is suitable for any kind of natural pile.

It is important to know that you cannot work with finished goods(hats, fur coats, collars), do not rip them beforehand. This is necessary in order to have access to the mezra.

Before proceeding, you need to check the condition of the mezdra. It must be moistened with water and try to stretch. If it does not stretch or tear, you can use paint. Otherwise, it's not worth the risk. You can tint the color with a tint hair balm, following the instructions. A bright and fresh shade is as stable and long-lasting as the paint. In this way, artificial pile can be dyed, since it is not as resistant as a real one, as well as silver fox, arctic fox, rabbit, mink.

Instructions for dyeing fur at home

Since the fur is thick and long, you may need 2 packs of paint. This is especially true for Arctic fox and mink. It is better not to buy the first coloring agent that comes across, but to prefer proven brands. Having prepared workplace, you can start painting according to a method consisting of two stages.

Stage 1 - preparation

It is necessary for cleaning from grease and dust for high-quality and uniform coloring.

1. Prepare a cleaning solution: soda, salt, washing powder one teaspoon per liter of water.
2. Clean the pile with a brush.
3. Rinse under warm running water.
4. Leave until dry.

Stage 2 - painting

1. Wear protective plastic or rubber gloves on your hands.
2. Prepare the dye mixture according to the instructions.
3. Before staining, it is necessary to treat the mezra with glycerin (you can replace it with any fat cream). This will keep the skin from drying out.
4. Apply the mixture as quickly as possible, combing the pile in the direction of natural growth.
5. Roll up and place in a plastic bag.
6. By time, the paint must be kept for as long as indicated in the instructions. Compliance with the recommendations is mandatory, otherwise you risk spoiling the material.
7. Rinse in warm water with any shampoo.
8. Treat with any hair balm for shine and silkiness.
9. Wash off all products with warm running water.
10. Rinse in warm water with the addition of vinegar: 1 tablespoon per liter of water. You can use any table vinegar.
11. Dry gently with a towel.
12. Lubricate the mezra again with a thin layer of glycerin. Gently crush it.

The drying process should take place in natural conditions - at room temperature, without the use of heaters, hair dryers and air conditioners. Drying time can be up to 3 days depending on the length and thickness of the fur. Speeding up the process can damage the fibers.

After drying, the product may shrink. To avoid this, pin it to any hard surface with the flesh side down. For example, pushpins or sewing pins to a wooden board.

Light and red shades are difficult to paint over with any hair dye, no matter how much it costs. Therefore, you can repeat the procedure 2-3 times, especially if you want to get a rich black color.

The easiest way is in cases where you just need to enhance the tone or make it darker. In order to properly dye fox fur, which has a white or other light color, at home, it is necessary to carefully paint over the pile to the very roots and the mezra itself. You can do this with a regular toothbrush, and then comb through with a comb. different directions. It should be borne in mind that chemical exposure to the skin does not pass without a trace. To change its color with minimal risk, use a regular marker.

When painting dark things in lighter tones, you need to be prepared for an unexpected result. Of course, like hair, fur with dark pigment must first be discolored. To avoid surprises, cut off a small piece of material and work on it. You can experiment by mixing colors in different proportions to achieve the desired result.

Do not try to change the color of a whole fur coat or other large items yourself. Such a surface cannot be painted by hand evenly and quickly. The described methods are suitable for relatively small things, for example, for a fur collar on a sheepskin coat or jacket.

You don't have to worry about the color disappearing. Dyed hair retains its color even with regular contact with water and detergents for many weeks on end, and clothes get wet much less often. Guaranteed result for 7-8 months. After that, the staining procedure can be repeated. The most persistent color is red.

What if you can't use paint?

The described method is not suitable for faux fur, since its structure is not as strong as that of natural. Also, if you are afraid to damage or stain the product, the skin is weak, unreliable, or there are any other reasons to avoid chemical hair products, you can get by with canned shoe paint for suede, velor and nubuck. This method will quite cope with the masking of burnt areas. According to the instructions, the balloon must be shaken up and the substance applied from a distance of 20 cm. In order for the color to be evenly distributed over the entire surface, after application, the paint can be “smeared” with a napkin.

If you are no longer going to wear clothes with fur and do not know what to do with it, consider decorating your handbag, headphones and other accessories with stylish, bright and multi-colored fur inserts.

If you are still not sure whether to paint your product and how exactly to do it, contact the workshop and consult with experts.

After proper dyeing in compliance with all the rules and instructions, the fur will become as soft and thick as before, and it will look completely new!

Fur products made of arctic fox, as well as diamonds - best friends girls. Spectacular fox fur coats and coats, original vests are liked by all ladies without exception. They not only keep you warm in the harsh Russian winters, but also look like royalty.

Despite the fact that the wear resistance of the arctic fox is very high, its color gradually loses its intensity. Dyed fox becomes dull over time, and white fox turns yellow. The good news is that restoring the presentable appearance of fox products is quite simple with the help of staining. You can resort to the services of an atelier, but it is much more economical to dye fox fur at home.

Features of self-coloring

Furriers believe that, unlike others, the fluffy and dense arctic fox is the most practical in work. Dyes lie on it evenly and last for a long time. The main thing is to strictly follow the instructions that we have compiled taking into account the recommendations of expert furriers.

An important nuance! Do not paint a new and expensive item at home just to get a different color. Color products that, in which case, you will not be sorry: yellowed, faded, out of fashion, etc.

The process of updating fox fur can be divided into several stages:

• preparation;
• preliminary cleaning;
• painting;
• fastening;
• drying.

Let's consider each stage in detail.

Training

If you want to dye a collar that is sewn onto a coat or jacket, you need to carefully rip it off, and after all the manipulations, sew it in place. From fur hats you need to rip the lining.

As for fur coats, it’s quite difficult to paint large things with high quality at home. To do this, you will have to dissolve it into separate skins, and then sew it again. If the fur coat is of value to you, it is better not to risk it. As a last resort, use a tinting spray.

fox fur cleaning

Existing dirt and greasy deposits must be removed, as they interfere with high-quality uniform staining. If you neglect this advice, then in contaminated places the color will turn out paler. To clean natural fur at home, a solution from a mixture of the following components will help:

• table salt - 2 tbsp. l.;
• mild detergent - 1 tbsp. l.;
• soda - 2 tbsp. l.;
• a few drops of ammonia.

Combine all ingredients, dilute in two liters of warm water. Treat the pre-combed fur with the resulting composition.

Apply it with a brush, trying to spread it evenly over the entire surface. Seek to clean both the top and bottom of the fur, including the undercoat. Then wipe the pile with a damp sponge several times to wash away the alkaline solution.

Light dirt can be removed well with pet shampoo, which can be purchased at a veterinary store. Dilute it with warm water, apply with a damp sponge to the product and gently clean. Then wash off the soap composition with a clean sponge.

The skin from the inside of the fur is called the mezra. It should not be wetted at this stage to avoid deformation. Before cleaning, grease the core with glycerin to prevent getting wet.

Cleaning can be done much faster with professional cleaning sprays such as the FURASOL brand.

How to dye fox fur at home?

It is right to start staining immediately after cleaning, since the dye lies more gently on wet villi.

Choosing a paint

Dyes for natural fur are sold in leather goods, hardware or fur stores. If it is difficult to purchase a special dye, we recommend using regular hair dye of the desired shade. At the same time, the color possibilities expand almost unlimitedly.

The fur of the polar fox is quite dense. To get a rich color, you need at least two packs of paint.

The basic rule is that the fur should be dyed a few tones darker than the existing one. Fans of colored fur things are advised to pay attention to the fashionable wine, dark blue palette of shades.

Experts note that such dyeing of fur at home will last from 6 to 12 months. Therefore, after one or two seasons, the process will have to be repeated.

Attempt at writing

If you want to dye fox fur for the first time, it is advisable to run a test to ensure the result. This can be done on a small piece or in an inconspicuous place, such as inside pockets or at the hem of a sleeve. Remember to protect your hands with rubber gloves.

If the result satisfies you, proceed to coloring the entire product. It is best to apply the coloring composition to the fur with a hairdressing brush. Distribute it evenly over each strand. The exposure time may vary, follow the instructions on the package.

After analyzing the reviews of fans of dyeing furs at home, we can conclude that a stable result is obtained when using inexpensive hair dyes. Domestic coloring compositions are more variable in colors. Such paints provide a wide field for experimentation: they can be kept until the desired shade is achieved. Then the paint must be carefully washed off with water at a temperature of 30-40 ° C.

Color fixing

To fix the resulting shade, dilute 5 tablespoons of ordinary table 9% vinegar in 2 liters of water, and rinse the dyed fur in the resulting solution.

If you want to make the fox fur more fluffy and silky, apply a balm for colored hair on it. Some manufacturers already have such a balm in the package. Leave on for a few minutes and rinse again with running water. Then dry thoroughly with a dry terry towel.

Drying

Do not forget to periodically comb the pile so that it does not cake in one direction. For combing, a fluffy brush for cats is ideal.

If you are working with separate skins or a collar, then before drying, they should be stretched on a wooden plank, attached with pins. This is done so that the mezdra does not shrink after getting wet.

The drying process will be completed when not only the pile, but also the core is dry. Usually it takes 2-3 days. If you did everything right, the thing will look like new.

Creative transformation of fur

After practicing with solid coloring, experiment and paint the fur in a more original way. Consider how to get a spectacular leopard color that does not leave the fashion pedestal.

For coloring, you need two types of paint: black and brown. Additionally, you need to make a stencil from thick cardboard. Cut out a pattern of asymmetrical holes in it. Place the stencil on the fur and paint over the cut out areas brown as described above. The next step is to apply black highlights in the center of the brown spots.

If you want to get a spotted color, use hairdressing techniques for highlighting. For example, pre-wrap small strands of fur in foil.

Another spectacular option is to paint only the tips of the villi. A rich shade will turn out if you choose a tone lighter than the main one for this.

How to lighten fox fur

This method is great for bleaching yellowed fox items or lightening dark fox items. To do this, you need a composition for bleaching hair or simple hydrogen peroxide. When using clarifiers, follow the instructions attached to them.

Dissolve peroxide tablets in water, apply the solution to the fur and leave to act for 15 minutes. It is undesirable to withstand more than a quarter of an hour, since the pile can thin out and become brittle.

Rinse the product and dry. You can then tint it to your desired shade. You should not lighten the fur of an arctic fox more than once, otherwise you risk permanently ruining it.

Grandma's recipe

This method was used to bleach yellowed fur even by our grandmothers, when there were no ready-made paints on sale. Its effect is not based on chemical reactions, and on optical illusion and keeps "until the first snow." Dilute a small amount of blue in warm water, wet a sponge and lightly walk along the pile. The result will appear after complete drying.

Express Method

To quickly refresh the fur product, specially designed dyes for fur, which are available in the form of an aerosol, will help.

Using this bottle is pretty easy. Keep it at a distance of 20-25 cm and spray alternately on individual strands. To prevent the pile from sticking together, periodically comb it with a comb.

Manufacturers position such processing as toning. Deep coloring by this method cannot be achieved. It is good when you do not want drastic changes, but want to mask minor defects. For example, yellowed tips or spots. Such a spray can is also convenient for stencil work. The color scheme of coloring aerosols is classic: white, black, shades of brown and gray.

How to paint the mezdra at home?

It happens that the fur is rubbed in places so much that a light mezra shines through it. In such cases, its color can also be corrected. When it comes to the skin, bald spots can be tinted with leather dyes. Do not forget to lubricate it with glycerin first. On the finished fur product, it is better to use special markers of the desired shade.

You probably already realized that, with the exception of some details, dyeing fox fur is no more difficult than dyeing hair. In this case, the same techniques are used: uniform application, exposure, fixing, rinsing with balm.

In addition, you yourself can control the shade with the help of a preliminary sample. The color obtained after dyeing in the atelier may pleasantly surprise you.

Numerous reviews of the owners of "live" furs indicate that you can update your winter wardrobe at home. Do not rush to put an end to a faded or boring thing made of arctic fox. Fantasy and skillful hands will prolong the life of expensive clothes and make your friends congratulate you on the new thing. Experiment and enjoy the warmth and beauty of your favorite things!

Unfortunately, even the most expensive natural fur products eventually lose their original attractiveness due to banal wear and tear. Nevertheless, it is still possible to return them to their former attractiveness. And, by the way, for this it is absolutely not necessary to contact specialized dry cleaners and workshops. In this article, we will consider everything about how to dye fur at home, what features this process is fraught with, as well as the nuances, subtleties and features of work to restore the lost color and shade on various furs.

It is immediately worth noting that despite the seeming ease and simplicity, the staining process requires maximum concentration of attention, because even the slightest mistake can make a thing completely unusable. Moreover, before dyeing yellowed fur at home, you should take care of the preliminary preparation of the product, cleaning it of dirt and dust, as well as carrying out a simple degreasing procedure. Ignoring this requirement can lead to the fact that the paint is not distributed evenly and is not absorbed into the structure of the product, as a result of which various spots and unpleasant stains will remain on its surface.

Used to process fur alkali solution, which includes:

• Dishwashing liquid or washing powder - 1 tsp;
• Ammonia - 5 grams;
• Table salt - 15 grams;
• Soda - 10 g.

This amount will be enough to prepare 1 liter of cleaning solution. The resulting liquid is applied to the fur area with a regular brush, after which it is washed off with warm running water. As an alternative to this recipe, you can use a mixture of alcohol, vinegar and distilled water in equal proportions. On the reverse side, it is recommended to lubricate the skin of the product with a greasy hand cream. This is done to prevent drying out.

An important point that you should pay attention to before dyeing fur at home with paint is the choice of coloring matter. The structure of the pile in natural furs similar to human hair, due to which for coloring fur products ordinary hair dyes are suitable, which can be found in almost any store (up to supermarkets). But it is worth remembering that the quality of the final result depends on how resistant you have chosen the dye. It should be noted that depending on the type and size of the product, you may need from 1 to 3 packages.

A small life hack: before starting the procedure, it is better to try out the purchased paint on a small and barely noticeable piece of the product: this way you can make sure that you have chosen the right shade, and also make sure that the dye falls on the material evenly.

Raccoon fur

So that painting raccoon fur at home does not cause problems and difficulties, you should familiarize yourself with the features of the material. Compared to other furs, the raccoon has a denser pile, which is why it will take much more time to color. At the same time, the number of consumables also increases: practice shows that 1.5-2 packs of paint may be needed for uniform coloring of one hat.

The paint is applied evenly, for this you can use a brush, often included with the purchased product. The time indicated in the instructions for use will be enough for the paint to

"grabbed" and penetrated into the structure of the pile. At the end of the procedure, the product is washed under warm running water and hung to dry. ATTENTION! Never use a hair dryer or other dehumidifier, as there is a possibility of damage to the product.

Astrakhan fur

Painting astrakhan fur at home does not require special knowledge, skills and abilities. Astrakhan fur can (and should) be dyed black. The paint is applied to a wet pile and washed with hands for even distribution, after which the product can be set aside for the time specified in the instructions from the manufacturer. After the period for which the paint should “grab”, the product is washed under warm running water, laid out on a flat, slightly inclined surface and, with the help of simple manipulations, is cleaned of excess moisture. After complete drying, the pile is combed with an ordinary comb in the right direction.

rabbit fur

So that dyeing rabbit fur at home does not lead to the “destruction” of your favorite thing, you should remember a few nuances. In particular:

1. The dye must be one tone darker than the original color of the item being dyed;
2. To evenly distribute the paint, in addition to the standard cleaning procedures, the rabbit should be immersed in a solution of washing powder for fur with water heated to 30-35 degrees Celsius and kept in it for 1 hour, then rinsed under warm running water;
3. When performing the procedures directly, it is recommended to use the instructions that came with the purchased paint.

Practice shows that dyes "Henna", "Basma" and "Gamma" are suitable for dyeing rabbit fur, in which the main substance penetrates into the deep structure of the pile. Drying occurs by analogy with previous products.

Fox fur

Due to the similar structure of the pile, dyeing fox fur at home occurs by analogy with a rabbit. Particular attention should be paid to the choice of shade: the most common mistake of people who undertake self-dyeing of expensive furs is non-compliance with the rules for choosing the required tone. Like last time, the substance should be one tone lower than the original color.

After the procedure, you can use the balm (comes with the dye): it will give the product a special shine and silkiness. Dry naturally, without hair dryers, radiators and heaters. Preferably - on a horizontal surface, securing the edges of the product with pins.

Mink fur

Contrary to the common misconception that dyeing mink fur at home is impossible, the dyeing procedure is no different from everything that was described above. However, it is important to remember that the coloring of mink products is used purely to restore them to their original appearance: when you try to change the color, you can get the most unexpected and, at times, quite frustrating results!

Sheepskin fur

Unlike previous methods, dyeing sheepskin at home is a little different. To evenly distribute the paint over the surface, the product is placed in a solution consisting of aniline dye and chemicals and heated at 40-50 degrees until the material acquires the desired color. But due to certain difficulties, this method is not very popular among the inhabitants. Fortunately, at present, people who want to dye sheepskin are offered an alternative in the form of aerosol dyes.

The process is carried out outdoors. Do not neglect resources personal protection, because in some cases, the coloring matter contains elements that can harm human health (after drying, under the action of UV rays, their harmful effects are leveled).

fox fur

Dyeing fox fur at home takes place in several stages:

• Preliminary cleaning;
• Applying paint with a brush;
• Rinse under warm running water;
• Drying.

It is important to remember that the product should be dried away from fans and heaters. It is strictly forbidden to use a hair dryer and other drying equipment: otherwise, the structure of the material may be broken and you will have to contact specialists to restore it.

Silver fox fur

Dyeing silver fox fur at home is extremely rare: the thing is that products made from this material are resistant to wear and are able to maintain their color throughout the entire period of operation. Another thing is yellowing, which occurs in 8 out of 10 cases. Dealing with it is easy enough. To do this, you can use both dry and wet methods. In the first case, a mixture of stationery chalk powder, talc, semolina, starch or wheat flour is rubbed into the fur. Since the main cause of yellowing is fat accumulating on the surface of the fur, these substances contribute to its effective removal.

In the second case, a wet solution of liquid soap and shampoo. 5 minutes is enough for the active ingredients to penetrate the hair structure and clean it from dirt and dust. Rinse off the solution carefully, without catching the core (bottom layer). Before being sent for drying, the fur should be combed with a comb with frequent teeth.

Conclusion

Summing up all of the above, you might think that dyeing natural furs is not as difficult as it might seem at first glance. However, if you doubt that you can do it yourself, it is better to trust the experts: most companies involved in such activities can guarantee a 100% effective result!

Alas, over time, the fur on our favorite fur coats loses its original appearance, changes in color and shape. But you do not need to run for a new product. The first reason is that it is far from cheap, and the second reason is that we will tell you how to dye fur at home. Of course, it should be rightly noted that not everyone decides to paint at home. Most are simply afraid to ruin the fur and prefer to entrust the product to professionals. This, of course, has its own meaning. But with our recommendations, you will not only not spoil the product, but also breathe new life into it. The fur will regain its shape, the villi will become soft, and most importantly, the color of the product will again be like new. It needs to be cleaned before painting. Without this procedure, painting can turn out with unpainted places, which will only aggravate the situation even more.

We clean the fur

For cleaning we need:

• water - 1 l;
• salt - 20 g;
• ammonia - (25%) -3 g;
• detergent - 1 g;
• soda - 2 g.

We mix and soak the product in the resulting solution for at least an hour. Next, squeeze and rinse well under running water. Dry it completely before painting.

How to dye natural fur at home

For painting we need:

• fur dye: in relation to the original color, you must choose a darker shade;
• fat cream (glycerin is also suitable);
• vinegar.

Fur dyeing at home

1. After we cleaned the pile with a solution, it is necessary to stretch it on the board and fix it. This will keep the fur from sitting down.
2. In order to avoid drying out of the product, its reverse side must be smeared with a greasy cream or glycerin.
3. Wet the pile a little and carry out its coloring.
4. Mix warm water and vinegar.
5. We place the fur coat after coloring.
6. The product should be dried without using a hair dryer.

As we can see, dyeing fur at home is not a big problem. It is only necessary to adhere to the rules: before painting, be sure to clean the product with a solution, check in a small area how the pile reacts to paint and coat the mezra with glycerin.

How to dye fox fur at home

The painting of the arctic fox is carried out according to the same principles. You need to clean it with a solution. If there are stains on the product, they can be removed with a solution of one teaspoon of ammonia and three tablespoons of salt dissolved in one liter of water.

It is necessary to paint on a damp pile. After the paint has been infused, wash it off in the shower. This type of fur can be dried with a hair dryer.

How to dye fur at home with hair dye

It would seem that you can still dye the fur at home. It turns out that ordinary hair dye is great for this. The advantages of this method are rich color and ease of painting. Minus - such a rich color does not last so long, about six months.

1. In order to radically change the color, the fur coat should be lightened using an oxidizing agent.
2. Paint evenly with a special brush.

If you like experiments, try dyeing your fur coat in tonic. It will give a temporary shade, and you will definitely understand your preferences.

We figured out how and how to dye fur at home. After painting, special care is required. You can apply a hair balm dissolved in water and rinse it off the product. The fur will receive a special color, and the product will last much longer. We wish you good luck!