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How to get rid of mold on paper. Mold Removal Chemicals

Almost everyone has experienced mold at least once in their life. It can appear on the walls, ceiling or in the seams of tiles. Except that she spoils appearance rooms with ugly black, gray or greenish spots, mold is harmful to health. To get rid of it once and for all, it is not enough just to process those areas where it is visible, it is required A complex approach and the right choice of funds. The article will discuss how to remove mold with your own hands.

Causes of mold

Mold is a colony of microorganisms whose spores are present everywhere, even in space. And with the onset of favorable conditions for mold, microorganisms begin to multiply at a tremendous speed, forming foci in the form of spots. With high humidity, it appears on any material, be it wood, concrete, furniture, paper, food, etc.

Therefore, it is not enough just to deal with the mold that has formed, you first need to understand and understand the reason for its appearance:

it can get into the house from outside on animal hair, clothes or shoes, food, etc.;
as soon as such microorganisms get into a favorable environment for them, reproduction begins with high intensity and in just a few days you can find the first foci on various surfaces in the apartment;
most often it is formed in rooms with high (more than 70%) humidity and insufficient ventilation. Is it a bathroom, toilet or kitchen. But, having appeared in one room, in the future it begins to spread throughout the apartment;
Most susceptible to mold are apartments located on the first or top floors. In the first case, the cause of high humidity is the basement, in the second - the attic.

High humidity is provoked by the following factors:

disturbed ventilation of the room;
high humidity due to the large number of indoor plants and the incessant operation of the humidifier;
in private houses, poor vapor and waterproofing of the insulation.

Tip: removing the visible focus of the fungus with a special tool, but without establishing the cause of its appearance, it will soon appear again. It is possible that it will remain in places inaccessible to visual inspection.

Eliminate causes of mold

The roof is leaking. This is the most common cause mold growth on ceilings and walls.
Lack of adequate air exchange. Need to design proper organization ventilation in the room or repair it.
Weak lighting. The sun's rays have a detrimental effect on mold, therefore, if possible, it is worth increasing the intensity of daylight in a problematic room.
Incorrect room vapor barrier. When warm air from the inside meets cold air, which can penetrate through the walls, condensation inevitably forms, which leads to the growth of mold. Recommended under facing material place a special vapor barrier membrane.
The presence of foci of infection on the other side of the treated surface. For example, if mold has appeared on the ceiling, the cause is often a large amount of mold from neighbors upstairs or in the attic.
If necessary, install special devices - air dryers. They remove excess moisture, accumulating it in a container that will periodically have to be poured out. In a room with dry air, mold growth is unlikely.

If there is a fungus in the shower, after use, leave its doors open and turn on the fan for 20 minutes.

Do-it-yourself mold removal

The damage from mold is obvious, therefore, at the first sign of detection, it is immediately removed. This will prevent adverse effects on health and interior decoration. In addition, removing it with minor lesions, the likelihood of reappearance is practically absent.

Access to the treated area must be free. If it is in the bathroom, then remove all lines from a small room, if on the ceiling, then you need to take care of a stable support.

If spores are found on a material with high porosity, then it will not be possible to completely remove microorganisms. Therefore, you will have to partially replace the material or throw it away (if we are talking about furniture).
The hardest thing to clean is a painted or plastered wall. The area with mold will have to be cleaned with a metal spatula along with a layer of paint. Since the hearth itself can be located under a decorative coating. At the same time, mold spores will be partially thrown into the air and settle on hands and clothes, so you need to work in things that you don’t mind throwing away later.
Next, any agent for removing mold is taken and prepared for work (if necessary, mixed and poured into the sprayer).

Tip: you need to work in a high-quality respirator, not only because of the pungent smell of the antiseptic composition, but also because of the likelihood of inhaling spores. And this already threatens with more serious consequences with health. If the room has a window, open it and send a fan through it to blow the air out. The ventilation holes are closed.

Now spray evenly over the entire damaged surface with a small margin at the edges. The site should be properly soaked with them. Further, depending on the manufacturer's recommendations, the agent is left for several hours or they immediately begin to scrape off the mold with a hard sponge. At the same time, it must be changed several times, otherwise the disputes will stick back.
Even if visually the area seems absolutely clean, the antiseptic treatment is repeated again. But at the same time, they no longer clean it off, but simply leave it (if contact is not expected with this area). At this time, it is advisable to turn on the heater or open the window.

Removing mold in the basement video

Folk methods for removing mold

These are the means and methods that have been used for decades to combat mold in residential premises. These are the most affordable and cheapest options, but not always effective enough. Therefore, it is often necessary to try several options until you achieve the desired result.

Bleach

This is the usual concentrated white that is in every hardware store. Its composition is so active (sodium hypochlorite) that it can cope with almost any kind of mold in an apartment or basement.
Whiteness completely destroys mold spores and increases the resistance of the treated surface to repeated reproduction of the fungus on it. But this applies to smooth materials such as glass or tiles. From porous surfaces, such as OSB, wood or plasterboard, bleach will clean the mold only from the surface, without penetrating inside. Thus, part of the microorganisms will remain intact and after a while they will begin to multiply again.

The disadvantages include its aggressive chemical composition, which can spoil the appearance or harm the quality of the cleaned coating. And when working, a sharp toxic odor is released, which, if inhaled, can cause dizziness. Work with such a tool is allowed only in a well-ventilated area.
Before starting work on removing mold with your own hands, you need to wear protective equipment: gloves, goggles and a respirator. In case of severe mold damage, whiteness can be diluted with water in a 1: 1 ratio. But the recommended proportions for processing tiles in an apartment are 1 part bleach to 10 parts water. You need to apply evenly, it is most convenient with a spray gun or a spray bottle, but a plastic bowl with a sponge will do. If the surface to be cleaned will not have direct contact with people in the future (for example, the ceiling), then after application, the solution is not washed off.

Bura

Unlike bleach, borax does not emit toxic substances and does not enter into chemical reactions followed by hazardous fumes. It is a natural product that does an excellent job of removing mold in homes. Most often, borax is used to clean and deodorize drainage systems. For work, you need to prepare an aqueous solution of borax.
First, the surface with mold is mechanically cleaned to reduce the number of spores. Then a solution is prepared by mixing borax with water in a ratio of 100 ml / 1000 ml. It is applied to the mold and with a stiff bristled brush they begin to clean it off. Excess moisture is removed and left to dry. After that, the remaining mold is cleaned with a dry cloth, while the borax solution itself is not washed off. It will create a protective film that will become an obstacle to the reproduction of the fungus in this place.

Vinegar

Even concentrated acetic acid will not be able to cope with all types of mold. But it is a natural bleach that is non-toxic and does not pose a risk to human health if inhaled.
Apply it with a sprayer or sponge without diluting with water. For the best effect, after spraying it is left for an hour. Then rinse with plain water and leave to dry. At this time, it is advisable to ventilate the room, as the smell is very pungent and can remain in a closed room for several hours.
Vinegar can be used as a prophylactic by treating the surface with it every 2 weeks.

Ammonia

Most effective for removing mildew from smooth surfaces such as glass or tiles. But on more porous substrates, such as drywall or wood, it will not completely remove the fungus. In addition, everyone knows that ammonia has a very pungent and toxic odor.
Even when mixed with water in a 1:1 ratio, the discharge is very strong and it will work only in a high-quality respirator. When applied to the treated area, the composition is left for 4-5 hours. After that, wash off with water. Often, professional products are made on the basis of ammonia, in which case you need to follow the recommendations on the package.

Hydrogen peroxide

At its core, it's antibacterial and antifungal, so it's great for removing mold. It is often used as an alternative to chlorine-containing compounds, primarily because it is absolutely safe for humans and environment. This is an effective way to remove fungal formations from almost any surface: tiles, furniture, sanitary ware. But before using, it is recommended to test it on a small area to make sure that the peroxide does not leave stains or streaks.
The pharmacy sells peroxide 3%, it does not need to be diluted with water, but immediately sprayed onto the mold. The area to be treated should be wetted properly and left for 15 minutes. After that, all dirt is removed with a brush and washed with water. For the best effect, you can mix peroxide with vinegar in a 1: 1 ratio. Store the solution only in a brown container or in a dark place.

Baking soda

It is one of the most common household cleaners. It is safe and absolutely harmless, but also suitable for removing mold. With strong pockets of mold, it must be used together with vinegar.
In 250 ml of water, stir a tablespoon of soda and pour into a spray bottle. Spray on the affected area and leave for a while. With the help of a hard sponge or brush, everything is cleaned and rinsed with water. Then again apply the same composition with soda and leave to dry completely.

You can do it even easier and put the required amount of dry soda on a piece of cloth soaked in water and wipe the mold with it.

Tea tree oil

As the name suggests, this is a natural and completely safe remedy for mold control. It is quite expensive, but it will take very little to remove spores. It is an essential oil with antibacterial and antifungal properties.
To work, you need to dilute only 1 teaspoon of tea tree oil in a glass of water and spray the moldy surface with the resulting solution. If necessary, the procedure is repeated after drying, it is not necessary to rinse the treated area with water. The scent is strong, but it dissipates pretty quickly. The prepared aqueous solution can be stored for a long time in a dark place.

grapefruit seed extract

Also an expensive drug, but safe, natural and very effective in the fight against mold. First of all, it is valued for the complete absence of an unpleasant or strong odor. Grapefruit seed extract destroys all microorganisms and additionally disinfects the treated surface.

It is sold in a very concentrated form, so only 10 drops are required for 250 ml of water. After application, the composition is not washed off. If it is necessary to carefully remove a large focus, spraying is repeated as many times as necessary. The finished solution is stored for a long time.

Mold Removal Chemicals

In hardware stores, you can find a wide variety of do-it-yourself mold removers. But before buying, it is recommended to read the reviews. So, users have identified the 5 most effective chemicals to combat the fungus.

Dali (Dali)

This is a universal antiseptic composition of domestic production, suitable for any surface: wood, concrete, brick, tile, paint, plaster, paper, varnish, etc. The price for a volume of 0.6 liters is approximately 150-200 rubles.

Destroys not only all types of fungal spores and molds, but even algae and mosses.
It has a very sharp and toxic smell, so you need to work not only with gloves, but also with a protective mask and respiratory bandage. To achieve the ideal result, one application is not enough. You will have to repeat it 2-3 times within 2-3 weeks. But after use, the mold does not reappear.

Alpa (fongifluid alpa)

Also a Russian composition based on antifungal and anti-mold components. It is universal for both internal processing of the room, and for external, for example, the walls of a house or an unheated basement. When used on painted surfaces, it does not change their color. This active fungicide is sold ready for use and is consumed at the rate of 1l / 5m2. The price of a bottle of 2 liters is 600 rubles.
Before applying to a highly porous surface, it is recommended to pre-sand it. This will ensure a deeper and more uniform penetration of the composition. For application, both a sprayer and a regular sponge or roller are suitable. After work, it is enough to rinse them with plain water.

Fongifluid can only be used at temperatures above +5˚С.
When folk remedies do not help, it is better to use more potent ones. Apply it to and around the affected area for greater confidence. After application, the mold will self-destruct for several days. After a week, the treatment can be repeated if the result is not completely satisfied.

Olimp Stop Mold

An excellent tool for removing mold in the bathroom, in the basement and even in the greenhouse. Due to the fact that it does not contain toxic substances, it is safe for humans and animals. Suitable for all types of surfaces, from concrete walls to drywall partitions.
The product is applied according to the instructions on the package, and left for 2-3 days. After that, just wipe it with a dry cloth. It is advisable to immediately repeat the procedure. If the room is constantly wet, then for prevention, treat once every 3 months.

Biotol spray

Designed to remove mold in the kitchen, in basements, on balconies. Also suitable for outdoor work. This biological antiseptic is safe as it does not contain chlorine. The cost of a can of 500 ml is 250-300 rubles.

Before starting work, the infected surface must be prepared. Mechanically clean the walls from mold. It is most convenient to do this with a scraper or a narrow spatula. If you rub with a brush or steel wool, the spores will be released into the air and subsequently settle again. All utensils that cannot be taken out of the room are covered with a film.
The agent is applied through a sprayer and left for several hours. After that, it is wiped and washed with water.
If the area to be cleaned is located in a highly humid room and has a large lesion, such as walls or a ceiling in a cellar, then the treatment will have to be repeated at least 3 times. For prevention, you can apply the composition every 6 months.

Mavix-Bio (Mavix-bio)

A rather expensive antiseptic complex preparation, the average price for 1 liter is 600 rubles. This universal remedy copes equally well with all types of mold and fungi.
It has three components. First, the surface is treated with special impregnation 2 times and left to dry. The active antifungal agent itself is applied on top and left for the required time (it is individual and indicated on the package). After that, the mold is cleaned with a sponge.
The final step will be the spraying of the water repellent. It not only improves the waterproofing qualities of the material, but also retains their vapor-permeable properties.

Mold can appear in absolutely any room, causing an unpleasant smell, allergies, various diseases, etc. That is why it is important to know the causes of mold in apartments, as well as a few of the most effective ways fight against already formed and developed fungus.

Harm and types of mold

Often mold fungus appears in our homes, which can be of several types:

None of the finishing materials known to us can withstand mold. But in addition to harm, she also toxic to the human body, especially for children. Depending on the level of mold spreading in the apartment, the symptoms can be different: first there is an effect on the respiratory system, and then on the whole organism as a whole. Evidence of the negative influence of the fungus is the appearance of cough, runny nose, lack of air, difficult to diagnose chronic diseases - all this is the reason for being in a damp room infected with mold.

Method number 15. Hydrogen peroxide + vinegar + boric acid

All these components are able to cope with mold at the highest level, and all together they give a generally amazing effect. Water must be mixed with peroxide, vinegar and boric acid in a ratio of 4:2:2:1, and then sprayed onto the surface or wiped it.

Method number 16. Get rid of for sure

Even if you have carried out the fight against the formed mold in accordance with all the instructions, there is still no guarantee that it will not reappear. It is important not only to remove the fungus that has already appeared, but also to eliminate all possible reasons his reappearance. That is why you need:

securely insulate an apartment or house;
repair or replace the heating system;
for drying air;
to establish a ventilation system;
dry clothes not in the room, but on the balcony or purchase a washing machine with a drying function;
use a hood when cooking;
well ventilate all rooms;
fix leaking roofs, taps, etc.;
geraniums and violets are a great place for mold to grow, so their presence in the apartment should be limited;
the most risky places in terms of the appearance of mold regularly wipe, spray with anti-fungal agents.

How to remove the smell of mold?

Often, after removing the mold from the apartment and subsequent ventilation, the smell of rot still does not leave the room. You can fight it with means that absorb odors. So, on the place where the fungus used to be, you can pour soda, and after a few hours remove it with a vacuum cleaner: soda perfectly absorbs odors, so after such a procedure the smell will either disappear or become much weaker.

Can be used as an odor absorber charcoal: briquettes are simply placed around the room with an unpleasant odor, and after a while there will be no trace of it.

At the first sign of mold, you need to act immediately, because after 10-12 months it can get to

Mold and fungus pose a great danger to both paper and humans. Mold destroys cellulose, turning it into a nutrient composition for its life activity. Paper in such places becomes loose, loses strength, and some types of fungi form pigment spots of different colors on paper - yellow, brown, red, black. These stains are almost impossible to remove.

It is worth noting that paper made from linen and cotton fibers is more resistant to fungi than paper made from wood fibers.

Also, glues of natural origin can be a nutrient medium for fungi. The most reliable way to protect books from fungal attack is to maintain optimal temperature regime and air humidity.

The book is conveniently disinfected in the usual plastic bag. Together with the Book, a cotton swab moistened with formalin is placed in the bag. It is important that the cotton swab does not come into contact with the book to avoid streaks and smudges. The package is sealed and placed in warm place(preferably at a temperature of 50 ° C) overnight or kept for two days at room temperature.

After disinfection, the book should be kept in a well-ventilated area until the smell of formalin disappears, and then soft cloth or wipe the book with a gauze swab.

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Removing mold and mildew stains from a book

If the book is damp for any reason and has not been dried in a timely manner, it may be affected by mold.

More than 200 species of molds are known to infect books. The appearance and growth of mold is accompanied by the formation of colored spots: on the spine and

The bindings are grayish in color, on paper and cardboard, as well as on fabrics, raids have a velvety powdery appearance.

Areas of paper affected by molds become pigmented and eventually break down and fall out because mold colonies feed on organic matter, damaging the paper fibers and depriving it of sizing. If mold is found on books, they must first be isolated from other books, thoroughly dried and disinfected.

In no case should you try to wipe off mold stains with a rag: mold spores will rub into the pores of the paper, and the book will be completely ruined.

Mold spots are moistened with a 2-3% formalin solution, which kills mold, and the remaining age spots are discolored with a 3-5% hydrogen peroxide solution, which can be replaced with a hydroperite solution:

1 tablet per 200 ml of water. Before processing, it is recommended to place a Plexiglas plate and a sheet of white paper under the book sheet. The stain is moistened with a bleaching solution (hydrogen peroxide or hydroperite), and after 5 minutes the sheet is dried with filter paper. If necessary

bleaching is carried out repeatedly, until the rock stain disappears completely.

When treating mold stains with formalin, certain precautions should be observed: it is necessary to work with formalin in rubber gloves or fingertips, as it acts on the skin. All operations are recommended to be carried out in a well-ventilated area, in a gauze bandage.

It is best to process books with formalin using gauze or cotton swabs. The swab moistened with formalin is strongly squeezed out, and then the mold spots that have appeared are treated with it, collecting the mold from the edges to the center of the stain and grabbing it with a swab. A swab that has been used once is not suitable for reuse. After removing the mold, the entire page of the book must be treated again with a clean swab soaked in formalin, after which it is wiped with a dry swab.

After such treatment of the affected sheets, it would be a good idea to wipe the sheets of the book adjacent to the affected with mold with clean (or even better - moistened with formalin) tampons with clean swabs. If the cover of the book or the cover of the binding was affected by mold, then disinfection of both endpapers and title pages adjacent to the cover of the book is mandatory.

In the absence of formalin, you can use ammonia, but the effect will be somewhat worse.

The book processed in this way must be thoroughly dried under pressure at room temperature.

If there are damp spots on the books that have not yet developed mold, try treating these places with a solution of potassium alum, then dry them thoroughly. Stains after such treatment should disappear.

In the future, a preventive inspection of books should be carried out, paying attention to those that were affected by dampness or mold, as well as to those that were in contact with affected books.

One of the tasks facing the archival service of the organization is to ensure the safety of documents. However, often documents are stored in places that do not meet the requirements for archives.

In rooms that do not have ventilation and heating, in the basement and attic floors, no one is immune from leaks in heating pipes or fires, as a result of which documents suffer not only from fire, but also from water.

mold on documents

Turning off the heating in winter leads to a sharp increase in humidity in the room. All these factors can lead to infection of documents with mold fungi, which, under certain climatic conditions, develop and destroy documents.

Currently, more than 200 species of fungi are known that can infect paper, of which 40 species live in places where documents are stored permanently.

The development of fungal spores becomes possible when the humidity level rises above 65-68%. The rate of destruction of documents depends on the level of humidity in the room. As the humidity level increases, the time required for mold development decreases from 120-150 days (at 70-75% humidity) to 5-30 days (at 85-100% humidity).

Under favorable conditions (high humidity, poor ventilation, wet documents), fungi are capable of destroying up to 50% of cellulose in paper in 2 months.

Signs of damage to documents are:

colored spots on the sheets;
fallen pieces of paper;
cemented sheets;
shabby paper;
fluffy colonies of mushrooms;
fungal spores.

Most often, places glued with glue (case roots) from natural products (gelatin, flour, starch) are exposed to infection.

Fungal spores damage documents mechanically by growing through the fibers of the paper and chemically decomposing the cellulose and glue, causing the sheets to mucus, stick together and disintegrate.

Hazard to human health

Mushrooms reproduce by spores that are spread indoors by air currents. But the contamination of documents is not the only danger that fungi pose, they also pose a threat to human health and are the causative agents of many diseases.

They affect organs and various tissues of the human body as a result of exposure to toxic substances secreted by fungi. As a result of infection, the skin, mucous membranes, lymphatic system, as well as internal organs and tissues of the musculoskeletal system can be affected.

Therefore, it is necessary to fight mold fungi not only in order to preserve both important information and documents, but also the health of the organization's employees.

Document processing methods

The most common methods for processing contaminated documents are processing with formalin vapor or using high-frequency current. But these popular methods have significant drawbacks.

Formalin does not penetrate well into the paper and the probability of reproduction of residual spores is high. In addition, such disinfection requires sheet-by-sheet cleaning of documents after processing. And we must not forget that formalin is a carcinogen and is dangerous to humans.

Treatment with high frequency current requires the removal of all metal fasteners (paper clips and staples) from cases and is not suitable for documents glued with PVA and silicate glue.

Fumigation- Processing documents with pesticides in a gaseous state - the most rational and gentle way for documents to process damaged documents.

Advantages of fumigation are:

high ability of gaseous substances to penetrate inside the processed documents and easily volatilize when aired;
the opportunity not to carry out preliminary preparation of documents (withdrawal of paper clips and staples);
the ability to process any documents, regardless of the binding method and paper type;
the ability to process up to 3500 cases of standard size at the same time;
as a result of processing, the spines and covers of cases are not deformed;
gas processing does not damage the text, regardless of the method of reproduction (handwritten, typewritten, ink or pencil);
processed documents do not retain the smell of chemicals.

Disinfection of documents in archival companies

Specialists of some archival companies process documents on specialized imported equipment with a mixture of ethylene oxide, which is capable of destroying the most resistant types of fungi (hetomium, penicillinium, alternaria, chrysosporium, mucor, etc.).

Handling infected documents carried out in several stages:

1. Preparatory stage include:

unloading of packed archival files and stacking on pallets;
moving cases to the premises of the site for preliminary preparation for disinfection;
unpacking cases and inspection in order to identify the focus of infection;
layout of expanders into cases, taking into account the degree of humidity of the documents, the thickness of the case, the type of paper;
formation of bundles of cases prepared for processing.

2. Carrying out chamber disinfection includes:

placement of bundles of cases on pallets of an automatic conveyor;
placement of biological indicators with spores, the most resistant fungi;
chemical treatment;
if necessary, local processing of documents with new generation antiseptics;
unloading bundles of files and placing documents in a specialized chamber for ventilation and removal of residues of the ethylene oxide mixture.

3. Final stage include:

unloading bundles of cases, unpacking, removal of biological indicators with fungal spores;
removal of dilators;
mechanical cleaning of documents from visible remains of dead mushrooms and traces of their vital activity;
dedusting cases;
packing cases in thick paper, binding;
processing labels.

After disinfection, biological quality control is carried out using special tests.

Anna Danilova