I make such vuliki. I have a bottom, a nested body for 12 Ukrainian frames, an extension for 12 Ukrainian piping frames (215mm), or for 9 Dadan piping, a ceiling, a lid, a krish.

This is a simplified version of the hive that was demonstrated by Priyatelenko V.Ya. at exhibitions in March and May 2011. Here is the description of the hive from its booklet: Three-hull beehive with special frames Author Priyatelenko V.Ya. In 2011, I presented my hive model with special body frames, the design and manufacturing technology of which I have been working on for more than one year. The hive was presented at the exhibition "Apiary Expo 2011" (March, exhibition center on Brovarsky Prospekt, Kyiv), at the exhibition-fair "Bdzhilnitstvo2011" (May, NAAS "Beekeeping Institute named after .. Prokopovich P.I."). I published an article about this hive model, which was sold in a thousand copies and interested beekeepers. Articles about the model of the hive I proposed were published in the magazines Pasika (No. 5, No. 6), Pasichnik (No. 6) for 2011. This topic has not gone unnoticed: beekeepers are interested in me constantly calling and writing letters, the first buyers have appeared. In addition, increased practical experience for the manufacture of a hive and a hive frame and the use of this system in the practice of beekeeping. This prompted me in my next article to reveal in more detail the essence and practice of operating the proposed hive model and frame in a form accessible to amateurs and interesting to professionals. A bee is one of the few representatives of the animal world that has served a person for decades and, at the same time, remains a "wild" animal. However, a bee cannot be called "wild". It would be more correct to call beekeeping "wild". The bee family is so attached to its nest, or rather, to the brood, that it very rarely leaves it. This allows you to manipulate them so much that there is an illusion of domestication of the bee. It can be said that most of today's "fundamental" concepts in beekeeping can be attributed to the category of illusions that create living conditions for bees similar to those of domestic animals. It is known that in nature the queen of a honey bee lives and uses its functions for up to 5 years, at the same time, when there is a need for a bee family, a quiet replacement of the queen takes place. For centuries, people have idolized the bee family, referring it to the ideal family in nature. In my opinion, modern methods beekeeping destroys the bee family, including manipulation of the queen, considering it as an aggregate for laying eggs, and this is the mother, the "queen" of the bee family. To date, scientists have proven that the relationships in the bee family, including the management of the uterus, proceed through substances that the bees secrete (the so-called pheromones). The uterus also plays the role of the "brain" center of the bee colony, which controls all the life processes of the bee colony with the help of pheromones. Thus, a single information field is created, the existence of which is impossible without an integral wax connection when building a bee nest. Most methods of modern beekeeping are actually built on restricting the movement of the queen with bars and insulators. Moreover, the design of the hives and the hive frame does not create conditions for building a nest according to natural needs. It can be said that the existing system of hives, hive frames and beekeeping methods does not ensure the natural existence of a bee colony. This, in turn, is the cause of most of the problems in this area. In this design, each beehive frame has wax contact with other frames. Throughout the history of beekeeping, a wide variety of hives and beekeeping methods have been proposed. A list of them would take more than one page. Existing models of hives can be divided into "beds", hives with a vertical construction and (something in between) "beds" with extensions. But an in-depth study of these models is not the purpose of this article. We note only a few significant shortcomings. For "beds" is characterized by the expansion of the bee nest in width, which is unnatural for the development of the bee nest. Accordingly, we have a reaction from the bee family, significant labor costs for the beekeeper. The extension system for these hives solves this problem, but only partially. Hives with a vertical construction do not provide natural conditions for the existence of a bee colony. We list several main characteristics for these systems. It is known that at first the bee family builds its combs up to 50 cm long in the amount of 7 - 14 pcs. This size is needed in order to place food supplies up to 20 cm above the brood from above, and for the winter a club of bees with a diameter of 25 - 30 cm. Practically existing hives with a vertical construction do not provide this. Another painful issue is the integral wax connection along the vertical between the hulls. The point is not only that the thickness of the upper, lower bars and the space between the frames give 4-5 cm of the so-called "dead" space. Yet a big problem in that in almost all existing hive systems and corresponding hive frames, bees build up the hive frame, starting from the top bar. That is, the actual gap between the nesting part of the hive and the attached body or extension is from 20 to 30 cm. Other biological mechanisms begin to operate here, the bee colony loses control over the only “brain” center (womb), uterine pheromones do not reach those areas. Also, I want to draw your attention to the fact that in nature the further expansion of the bee nest does not occur in a straight line, but in a “spiral”. This is inherent in the biology of bees and must be taken into account. So, summing up the above information, we can conclude that none of the existing hive models and hive frames provides the natural needs of the life of the bee colony and ease of maintenance in order to obtain beekeeping products. Having tested most models of hives, I came to the conclusion that for a bee colony the most natural is one of the variants of the Ukrainian hive for 12 hive frames with a honey body for 8 hive frames, which are placed across the nesting frames. But the hive has not gained wide popularity because it has significant drawbacks. First of all, this is an inconvenience in service. The first thing that was done was a high bottom 100mm subframe with a back that opens up. This made it possible to inspect the nest, from below, without dismantling it. In addition, if necessary, you can feed the bee colony and, of course, clean it from deadness after wintering. Practice has shown that most bee colonies, after filling the nest box for 12 frames, need further development. Later, the queen either goes to sow in the upper body, or the colony enters the swarm state. Therefore, I came to the conclusion that I need to add a lower case to expand the female part. To do this, I tested two options: on the frame across the nest box and on half of the Ukrainian frame (280x280 mm) parallel to the nest frames. The first option turned out to be much better. A frame located across the frames is much more preferable to master. Having made the supposedly “correct” hive, I improved the productivity of the bees and began to spend less time on hive maintenance, but the probability of the bee colony entering the swarm state, the transition of the queen to the honey body remained quite high. IN Lately began to talk about the need to modernize the beehive framework. The proposed models of hive frames did not ensure the reliability of fixing the artificial foundation, the reliability of the hive frame itself when disassembling the bee nest.Continued in the next post, because. not invested in the length of the message.

The Ukrainian type of hives is loved by many beekeepers due to its simple design and good bee content.

Ukrainian houses in modern beekeeping have gained quite a lot of popularity and are often used by both amateur beekeepers and professionals. These hives have come to be known as the result of the work of several adherents of the narrow high frame. Among them, the Polish beekeeper Kazimir Levitsky is most often remembered, who developed a very simple design of the hive - narrow and long, in which heat is well retained. The latest modernized version of the K. Levitsky hive, due to its widespread use, was called the Ukrainian hive. Today, it has several variations that are equally good to use, but have a number of minor differences. Among all these bee houses, a sunbed hive is singled out, for two families, with extensions, with a store, a riser hive and a narrow-height frame.

Ukrainian lounger

This hive is a very simple rectangular structure, so it is well suited for use by amateur and novice beekeepers. In such a “house”, high-grade honey is always obtained, and due to the fact that the uterus is located in one place and does not go into an extension, there is no need to install partitions. In addition, a bed hive can accommodate both one bee colony with a nucleus and two. The division of the hull into compartments also implies the presence of two entrances.

Ukrainian hive-lounger is very effective to use in stationary apiaries, where there are insignificant lands of honey plants around, as well as in areas with a warm, but not hot climate. They also have several variations.

For 20 frames

The Ukrainian bee hive-lounger for 20 frames is most suitable for keeping one family of insects and implies the presence of 20 frames in the body. The design of the hive also includes a dividing wall, which divides the body into two compartments. Usually, a nucleus and a spare queen are placed in one compartment, and a full-fledged family is placed in the other. In summer, this design helps to quickly build up an additional number of bees in order to prevent swarming during honey collection. The set of this hive includes 20 frames, a bottom, an extension for 20 half-frames, two diaphragms, a roof, and separately store and nest frames.

For two families

Keeping two families in a Ukrainian hive is very profitable. In such a house in winter, the bees retain heat better and consume less food. To support two families, there must be two separate entrances, with two lower and two upper ones. As a rule, 20 or 24 frames are installed. Two compartments are separated by a special cardboard partition, which fits snugly against the walls and bottom. It is needed so that the bees of two families do not move to each other. But do not forget that you need to make holes in the partition - holes with a diameter of no more than 2-3 millimeters. This is necessary so that the bees recognize each other and acquire a single smell.

The design of the hive-lounger for two families

For each family, 16 frames and two more store frames are installed - in the end 24. It is important to place the notches on opposite sides of the hive so that the bees do not mix during work. Also, on each half, holes for ventilation should be located on the back wall. This is important during the hot summer period. In winter, it is good to keep these hives just in the open air, all the lower openings are tightly closed, creating a comfortable microclimate of the house.

With extension

This type of hive-lounger is very popular among beekeepers who keep insects in the "stationary" and special queen bee apiaries. What is its feature? This hive mainly consists of 20 frames. The design is very similar to the 16-frame beehives, but varies in size. On the front wall, it has four notches, which can be closed with special valves. This allows you to keep two bee colonies.

Features of the hive with an extension

In the bottom the hive has cuts for the packing tape, and here, as in 16-frame hives, the front part of the bottom protrudes. Thus, the lower arrival shelf is formed. But their main feature is that the hives have a special extension. The honeycombs of such guides are much stronger, which helps with pumping out honey and during the period of insect migration. In these hives, honey is obtained of higher quality, since brood is not hatched in the supercombs and pollen is not added. Also, these hives are well adapted to the transportation of bees, as there is improved ventilation. The space above the frame has been increased here, convenient gate valves and ventilation grilles have been made.

with shop

The store in such a hive plays the role of an additional place for storing honey. It is used for the same purpose as the multi-hull hive. With the store, this design provides more room for brood rearing, comb building and honey stacking. Usually the store is installed when the bees occupy 10 frames, and the brood - 8. Also, such a hive often helps to prevent the swarm state of the bees and loads all the reserve workers with work. Ukrainian bee hives usually have both an internal store and an external one.

Riser

Unlike conventional sunbed hives, this design has a more elongated shape, reminiscent of a high-rise building. Such a hive is often multi-hull with narrow frames. Risers are completed with four cases with ten frames. The design of the hive is very simple - it is elongated with a removable bottom, without any protrusions, except for the arrival one. There is its second name - Ukrainian multi-hull.

For narrow frame

Domestic beekeeping remembers the greatest popularity of narrow-height frames in the 90s of the last century. But today they are also not forgotten, especially in areas with long winters. The idea of ​​creating a hive with narrow high frames came precisely because of the need for a good wintering. And, indeed, this special design helps to maintain a comfortable warm temperature in the hive all winter.

Features of the hive on a narrow frame

In terms of its internal indicators, this hive resembles a nest of bees in natural conditions, for example, in a hollow tree. High frames contribute to the calm transfer of wintering by insects, as well as to actively develop throughout the season. True, a narrow-high hive is poorly adapted for roaming, therefore it is used mainly as a stationary one for medium-sized apiaries.

Design

Ukrainian hive-lounger consists of the following main parts:

• frame;
• two diaphragms;
• roof;
• integral bottom;
• framework;

As you can see, everything is extremely simple. Depending on the number of frames, only the size of the bee house itself changes. Invariable for everyone is a notch (15 by 160-200 millimeters). It is located a little to the left of the center and is covered with a mesh, which, when folded down, plays the role of an arrival. But depending on the method of beekeeping, for example, a beehive for two families, there can be two or more entrances.

A standard hive of this type is completed with 16 frames without separators. Also, depending on the climate, additional insulation of the front and rear walls is provided. They are usually double, so straw, wood shavings or other insulation can be placed in the free space.

Drawings and dimensions

Many novice beekeepers cannot always buy the necessary hives, and therefore they often think about making them on their own. And the main thing in this process will be the correct drawing and the exact indicated dimensions of the future bee house. It is best to choose drawings verified on special beekeeping sites or from professionals. Not only the life of the bees, but also a good honey collection and honey harvest will then depend on the right hive.

We bring to your attention a drawing with the dimensions of the Ukrainian hive-lounger

When building, be sure to take into account the exact dimensions of the hive. So, for example, a standard Ukrainian case has a length of 686, a width of 381 and a height of 507 millimeters. Don't forget about wall thickness. The front and back must have at least 33 millimeters, the side and bottom - 28 millimeters. The walls and bottom must be assembled separately, fastened with glued rails. In the right wall there is an outlet with a height of 115 millimeters. Fold - 6 by 16 millimeters. Detailed dimensions are indicated on the drawings.

How to do it yourself?

The rather simple design of this hive allows almost everyone to build it with their own hands. How? Having a drawing and exact dimensions, it is important to remember the sequence. So, for example, first you need to make a case. It, as you know, consists of a bottom, a roof and four walls. The front wall and back are made of three boards having a thickness of about 40 millimeters. After preparing all the boards for the hull, they are assembled into a shield, into a tongue and groove. The side walls are made of four boards, which are 365 millimeters long, 139 millimeters wide, and also 40 millimeters thick.

Do not forget to make allowances for marriage and trimming during the preparation of parts. They should be about 20 in length, 10 in width and 5 millimeters more in thickness. Under the do-it-yourself hive, then you should choose a suitable frame.

It is important to note that the hive, called Ukrainian, has become popular due to the fact that the workers in them endure winters well. Keeping bees takes less time and cost, especially in winter period. In it, insects do not need to spend a lot of energy on heating the room, so they never lack food. At the same time, honey, which is located in the upper layers of the frames, also creates a kind of “cushion”, accumulating heat. Also in such hives, honey collected in spring is also compactly located in the upper parts of the frames.

Sep, 2012
09

Published by: Petr_MS

Many beekeepers know that over time, it becomes difficult to handle heavy cases and honey magazine tops against the backdrop of increased aggressiveness of bees. At the present time I keep colonies of the Central Russian breed and their crosses with Carpathian bees in twelve-frame hives, equipped with one to three magazine extensions. I started beekeeping in Ukraine in 1968. At that time I had two tall, solid Ukrainian twenty-frame beehives made of thick boards for narrow-high frames. Amateur beekeepers outside insulated such hives with dense mats of rye straw, as it repels mice well and protects the walls from overheating in the sun. The upper bars of the frames were in contact, so the canvas was not used. The bees wintered well in these hives and always gave a sufficient amount of high-quality marketable honey from gardens, meadows and field honey plants. With the spread of twelve-frame hives and sunbed hives in Russia, Ukrainian sunbed hives on a narrow high frame were forgotten. But they continue to be used in Ukraine, in Belarus.

I support those amateur beekeepers who believe that obtaining marketable products practically does not depend on the system of hives and the material from which they are made. With a good honey harvest, marketable products can be obtained, even in. The main thing is that they have a lot of bees and enough empty combs. honey flow depends on following factors: winged workers and their condition in the spring; rich honey base within a radius of 3 km point; good weather conditions during honey collection; working capacity of families, their strength, health and; the provision of the apiary in sufficient quantity with high-quality light honeycomb frames and foundation.

When kept in the 1980s. in the peculiar climatic conditions of Northern Kazakhstan annually received from each of the seven families at least 150 kg of marketable honey from yellow acacia, sainfoin, yellow sweet clover, buckwheat and sunflower.

Wintering in hives of this design is not always successful, especially if the winter is cold and long, and the spring is long. Sometimes, having reached the upper bars of the frames, without having completely used up the feed reserves along their edges. In addition, in the fall, the winter club cannot form properly due to low nesting frames. The bees have to literally hang below.

Because they might not be enough. Some give candy, others put sugar syrup in jars or condensed milk, others put comb honey on top of the frames. But when there is still snow all around, and the nights are frosty, top dressing is not always successful.

Often, in the presence of abundant food supplies, they can die in the cold winter in autumn due to the lack of empty cells in the framework. Unable to create a dense club for a successful wintering, they freeze on combs filled with food.

It was invented in France and is more suitable for mild southern winters, when at any time you can intervene in wintering and provide the bees with the necessary assistance.

Wintering of winged toilers on narrow nest frames has some advantages compared to low ones. On such frames for bees, conditions are created that are as similar as possible to natural ones. The bees of the club do not encounter obstacles in the form of wooden bars and inter-body space, which occurs when wintering in two nest buildings or in buildings with magazine extensions.

Usually the bees form a dense club on 7-8 streets. Its diameter is approximately equal to the width of the frame - 300 mm. Rising during wintering to the ceiling of the hive, the club can fully consume honey and bee bread, without feeling a lack of them.

It is simply impossible to move away from the food, as in the hives of other systems, in such a situation. It is not necessary to leave more frames for bees for wintering than they incubate in autumn. It is better to rearrange such frames by a plug-in board or store them until spring.

In early spring, in a narrow and high nest, the bees warm up better, grow more brood, which contributes to the rapid development of the colony. When on a narrow frame, it is enough to leave 7-8 combs in the hive, filled in the upper part with honey no more than half. Insert boards must be installed on both sides of the nest. This is significant and the removal of moist air outside in winter protects the outer combs from mold in the spring.

Considering all the pros and cons, in 2010 I designed and manufactured three beehives for a narrow frame. The kit includes: a body, 12 nesting frames, an insert board, a detachable bottom, a liner and a flat roof (Fig. 1).

The case was made from a standard case and a magazine extension, which I connected to each other, and shortened the opposite side walls with a saw. The result was a narrow nested body with the following internal dimensions (at least): height 450 mm, length 450 mm and width 315 mm. In the front wall, at a distance of 150 mm from the upper edge, he equipped the upper notch? 21 mm. In summer it is round, in winter it is slotted (20 × 10 mm) due to the installation of a hardwood barrier.

The bottom is detachable, the height of its strapping is not less than 50 mm. The lower notch is slotted (height 10 mm, length 150 mm), located in the middle of the front beam of the bottom binding. In the bottom, under the 1st and 12th frames, I made two holes? 27 mm and closed it from below with rotary metal shutters. They, if necessary, improve ventilation both in summer and in winter. In addition, in the spring, when cleaning and sanitizing bottoms with a blowtorch, it is convenient to remove debris through them without removing them from the stand. To do this, it is enough to turn the damper under the bottom of the hive to the “open” mode.

I install donya on metal stands 300 mm high. They are made of steel bar Ø10 mm in the form of a truncated pyramid.

The liner was built from a 20 mm board along the length and width of the body with a height of 100 mm. He presses well along the contour of the canvas from the tarpaulin.

The roof is flat, with an overlap of 70 mm around the perimeter to protect the hive from rain. The upper shield was sheathed with tinplate and painted. In the roof of the hive, a continuous nomadic type ventilation mesh is installed, which protects against rodents and other pests of bees.

I made it with a slight narrowing down, 5 mm per side, and equipped it with honeycomb. I stretch the wire in them vertically between the upper and lower bars in four rows symmetrically to each other (Fig. 2). This design significantly increases the strength of the frame and allows the production of all bars with a thickness of not more than 10 mm and a width of 25 mm. In addition, it is easier to remove it from the housing without injuring the bees. The workers of the hive willingly build even honeycombs with bee cells on the foundation. It turns out according to the principle: more wax - less wood.

The design features of my hive are as follows. Firstly, during a period of strong and stormy honey flow, I install store extensions. In this case, I use a liner and a roof from a standard twelve-frame hive. Thus, the hive acquires a T-shape (Fig. 3). The gaps formed along the edges between the nest box and the magazine extension are closed with two bars from the lining. When creating strong ones, instead of two usual magazine extensions, I place a second body on the hive through the dividing grid. From other hives, I put 11 frames 435 × 300 mm in size under honey with printed brood at the exit. After the release of the brood, the bees willingly put up to 40 kg of high quality marketable honey in them.

Secondly, there is no need to disturb the bees in the lower nest box every time. when working in extensions and pumping out honey, they behave quite calmly. Their behavior prompted me to create this hive. Inventing a universal dwelling for winged workers, he set himself several tasks: to make the most of standard twelve-frame hives, store extensions and frames with honeycombs in its manufacture; provide with minimal losses for bees and without early spring top dressing; facilitate the work of caring for bee colonies during inspections, when setting store extensions, frames with wax and when selecting combs with honey for pumping out (that is, interfere in the life of a bee colony as little as possible); receive marketable honey throughout the active season.

New hives populated with strong swarms. When planting swarms, in addition to foundation, it is necessary to put frames with honeycombs. Where can I get them when all the nesting honeycomb frames in the apiary are of a different design? To do this, I cut off the hangers of the upper bar at the standard frame and screwed a bar with a length of 335 mm and a cross section of 10 × 25 mm to the side with screws. The frame was rotated in the vertical plane by 90°. The result was a narrow nesting frame about 450 mm high and 300 mm wide. I put the converted frames through one, alternating between the new frames with honeycomb. I gave a frame with fresh honey to each hive, this stimulates the bees of the swarm to actively work on the honey collection.

In my hive, you can install no more than 12 nesting frames and, if necessary, 10-20 magazine frames. This is enough for large stationary apiaries with an average constant honey collection from herbs. During the main honey harvest from linden, I work with store frames. I do not violate the integrity of the nest, with the exception of setting up nesting frames with foundation in the spring-summer period (at least four or five pieces per family).

Due to the capricious climate of the Baltic States, building strong families in the hope of the main honey harvest from linden does not always have a positive effect. You can get strong colonies that during the season will use all the nectar they bring to grow brood. At the same time, they can grow and not give marketable products.

The average family of bees spends at least 90 kg of honey per year on its development. Its main part (more than 50 kg) is consumed in the second half of winter, early spring and early summer. At the beginning of wintering, the bees practically do not use food reserves, which is noticeable from the readings of the control hive.

Usually in our area the linden produces abundant nectar once every four years. Strong families bring at this time up to 10 kg per day. The 2011 season was favorable for the production of linden honey, despite the fact that it was rainy almost all summer.

An important advantage of the hive is that, without removing the empty extension, you can safely work with the bees, get and inspect the nesting frames. In addition, there is always fresh or sealed honey in the upper part of the narrow nest frames above the brood. The uterus does not tend to rise through the honey into the extensions to lay eggs. To work, it has enough existing frameworks.

The brood usually occupies the entire area of ​​the comb up to the top bar. At the same time, the bees do not have enough space to create food reserves in the lower nest box. First of all, they put honey in the upper magazine extensions, spending a lot of nectar for growing brood. In my opinion, this circumstance negatively affects the production of marketable honey, especially with a stable, average honey yield and sometimes unpredictable Baltic weather. In such a situation, a lot of brood does not always mean that there will be a lot of honey.

In 2011, given the good result, he made seven more universal hives. This summer, all ten hives were populated with strong swarms.

A.F.Krivolap
Kaliningrad region,
j-l, "Beekeeping" No. 7, 2012

Ukrainian hive-lounger consists of a bottom, which is most often arranged integrally, a body containing 20 narrow frames, and a roof (figure).

Case manufacturing.

The case consists of a front, rear and two side walls 40 mm thick.

Making the front wall.

The front wall is assembled from three boards, having a clean length of 840 mm and a thickness of 40 mm. The width of the bottom board is 145 mm, and the next two are 185 mm. After planing, they are assembled into a shield, into a tongue and groove, for this, tongues with a depth of 15 mm and a width of 13 mm are selected on the upper edges of the lower and middle boards. The tongue during selection is somewhat shifted to the inner surface of the board. Laths 840 mm long, 13 mm thick and 30 mm wide are driven into the tongues. Sometimes the boards of the walls of the Ukrainian beehive-lounger are assembled into a tongue and groove (Fig. 64).

After gluing the shield, a fold 25 mm deep and 50 mm wide is selected in it from the inside at the upper edge. The fold is made in this way: after marking with a tongue-and-groove, a tongue with a depth of 24 mm is selected, then the unselected part of the wood is cut off with an ax and cleaned with a planer and a selector. The fold forms a side for insulation. Then a frame fold 11 mm deep and 20 mm wide is selected. The frame fold is also made with a tongue and groove and a selector. After that, quarters 25 mm deep and 40 mm wide are selected in the front shield to connect it with the side walls at the ends. Two lower tap holes 200 mm long and 10 mm high are cut along the lower edge at a distance of 90 mm from the ends, and then two upper tap holes 25 mm in diameter are drilled strictly in the middle of the lower tap holes at a distance of 120 mm from the upper edge.

Making the back wall.

The back wall is made of three boards 840 mm long, 185 mm wide and 40 mm thick. The boards are connected in a tongue and groove. Two folds are taken from their inner face at the upper edge - a frame fold 11 x 20 mm in size and an insulating fold 14 x 50 mm in size.

At the bottom edge, under the bottom, a quarter is made 25 mm deep and 40 mm wide. At the ends, to connect the rear wall with the side walls, end quarters measuring 25 x 40 mm are selected.

The lower notch 100 mm long and 10 mm high is punched closer to the right side wall. Make it at a distance of 40 mm from the bottom edge and 90 mm from the end. A correctly made rear wall should be 40 mm wider than the front, that is, have a width of 555 mm.

Manufacturing of side walls.

Each side wall is made of four boards having a clean length of 365 mm, a thickness of 40 mm and a width of 139 mm. Rough blanks should be 20 mm longer than the finishing blanks, 10 mm wider and 5 mm thicker. These boards are planed, planed to the required dimensions, but do not end. Then they are connected to each other in a tongue and groove. To do this, a tongue 13 mm wide and 15 mm deep is selected from the bottom board in the upper edge, in the upper board in the lower edge, in the middle boards in both edges. The slats are driven into these tongues with glue and the side wall shield is assembled. After drying the shield, one of the ends is trimmed along the square. 365 mm are measured from it and the rest is sawn off with a fine-toothed saw. In each side wall, quarters 25 mm deep and 40 mm wide are taken from the inner layer at the bottom edge under the bottom. After the manufacture of all four walls and careful processing of their inner surfaces with a double planer, they begin to hammer together the body. When hammering together, the walls are connected so that the quarters selected - under the bottom, coincide, and the front shield with its lower edge would be at the level of the quarters of the side walls.

Bottom making.

The bottom is made of three boards 810 mm long, 150 mm wide and 40 mm thick. After planing and planing, they are interconnected into a tongue and groove. From below, the boards are fastened with skewers. After trimming the bottom, it is inserted into the quarters of the hull and nailed with 100 mm nails so that each board is nailed with four nails. When the bottom is nailed, its protruding part is planed into a cone. This is done so that atmospheric precipitation does not fall through the notches into the hive. A dividing board is nailed to the front wall from the outside and to the protruding part of the bottom, which delimits one notch from another. The dividing board is made 30 mm thick, 70 mm wide and 400 mm long. Its front edge is cut out figuratively. Guide bars are nailed to the upper edge of the tap holes, into which two tap holes are inserted. The rear notch is also equipped. To do this, a support bar for the arrival board is nailed to the lower edge of the notch. A guide bar is attached above the notch. Between the support and guide bars insert summer liners. The landing board is attached with hinges.

Roof manufacturing.

The roof consists of a strapping and a roofing shield. The harness has a front, rear and two side walls (Fig. 65). The roof is made single-pitched.

The front wall, 860 mm long, 200 mm wide and 20 mm thick, is made 120 mm higher than the back.

In the front and rear walls at the lower edge on the inside, folds 15 mm high and 10 mm deep are selected to connect the roof with the buildings. At the ends of the same walls, for connection with the side walls of the strapping, quarters are made 20 mm wide and 10 mm deep. The side walls of the roof trim are made of boards 395 mm long, 20 mm thick and 200 mm wide. The upper edge of the boards is sawn in a straight line so that their rear end is 80 mm. In the side walls of the roof trim, at the lower edge, folds 15 mm high and 10 mm deep are selected from the inside. Then the roof trim is knocked down with nails. After hammering together with a jointer, the upper edge of the front and rear walls of the strapping is beveled so that the upper edges of all four walls are in the same plane. Four roofing boards 960 mm long, 130 mm wide and 15 mm thick are nailed to the roof trim. The boards are fastened with a uniform overlap on all sides of the hive. From above, the roofing shield is covered with tin, roofing felt, roofing material or rubber.

Three ventilation holes with a diameter of 20 mm are drilled in the side walls of the roof trim at a level of 50 mm from their lower edge. On the inside of the roof, the space adjacent to the ventilation openings is fenced off with a grate with a mesh size of 3 mm. Outside, the ventilation holes are closed with turntables.

Exists great amount hive varieties. These are single-case evidence, and double-case and multi-case evidence, and a beehive lounger. In fact, the lounger hive has a second more common name - Ukrainian hive or Ukrainian lounger hive.

Experts know that the Ukrainian hive lounger is one of the most common hives. That is why many people are interested in where you can get the drawings of such a hive.

Benefits of using

This design fully satisfies all the biological requirements that bee colonies can put forward for evidence.

The main features of such a "house" are that it consists of 22 (plus minus 2 high frames) high frames, and does not contain a single removable part. That is, such hives can be safely moved and transported without worrying that the removable parts are securely fastened.

This type is very convenient in order to form bends in them. Moreover, it is possible to form a hive simultaneously with the settlement of an already existing family. To do this, you just need to just fence off a place for the family and for new layering. In addition to the fence, it is also desirable to make peculiar grooves in the side partitions. It is mono to insert partitions into them, which will separate the high frames for the layering and for the nucleus. On the Internet you can find a lot of drawings of how to make partitions for high frames and drawings of how to make holes.

It is due to the fact that the hive is very easy to divide into 2 parts (using public drawings) that such hives are very common for use in those apiaries where beekeepers are breeding.

As practice shows, in such houses it is possible to harvest more honey for the winter and, accordingly, the bees in it tolerate the cold better.

Ukrainian beehives are also very comfortable for the winter season. After all, in the same way, by dividing their high frames, you can populate the main family of bees and layering.

All that relates to work in a beehive-lounger is just setting up high frames, rearranging them and selecting high frames with wax and honeycombs. The owner of such hives will not have to deal with the removal and setting of heavy buildings. They are simply not there. That is why such structures are used in apiaries, which are home gardens.

History

Science knows for sure that those cliques that today are called Ukrainian hives or loungers used to be very successfully used by those beekeepers who are engaged in apiary as a hobby, and not professionally. After all, their design is such that it does not require a lot of time and effort. That is, you can do them “in between times” after work. It is precisely because of this factor that a large number of amateur beekeepers used these structures earlier, and are happy to use them today in the countries of the former USSR.

Disadvantages of using

There is nothing in nature that has the same virtues. And Ukrainian evidence-beds are no exception. They also have their shortcomings.

Due to the fact that this design is non-separable, it, like any bulky structure, takes up a fairly large amount of space. Not everyone has so much free space in their apiary to put up such houses for bees.

The second drawback is that under the frame space they are very small. This greatly complicates the exchange of air "in the house", which is important in the winter season, when insects go to spend the night.

The location of nests in such buildings is the biggest drawback. The fact is that they are located here horizontally, and therefore there may be difficulties with expanding the nests.

After all, it has been repeatedly proven that with a horizontal arrangement of nests, bees are much more active than with a vertical one.

However, despite all these shortcomings, more and more professionals in the field of breeding these beneficial insects choose evidence-beds.

What Ukrainian evidence gives to bees

Among all these bee houses, a sunbed hive is singled out, for two families, with extensions, with a store, a riser hive and a narrow-height frame.

The design of Ukrainian evidence is one of the best not only for beekeepers, but also for striped insects. The fact is that by installing such a design, you enable the bees:

• Equip your nest for the winter yourself. Bees can do this throughout the warm season, and then by winter you will get a comfortable wintering place for this particular family, and the almost complete absence of the need to make a wintering place for bees.
• Frame for wintering bees, or rather its height can be increased if necessary.
• The absence of absolutely any manipulations that violate the harmony of the life of bees. You will not need to move bodies and magazines, add or remove them, and these processes are unnatural for your striped insects.

So, having appeared many years ago, such a kind of design as the design of the Ukrainian hive-lounger has not yet lost its relevance and popularity among leading beekeepers.