Ideal greenhouse dimensions. What is the best greenhouse size?

As you know, most summer residents currently prefer newer and more advanced polymer structures to old and uncomfortable polyethylene and glass greenhouses. This is not surprising, because thermoplastic is an excellent heat-insulating material. But how to choose the most suitable and optimal size of a polycarbonate greenhouse - so that, on the one hand, there is enough space for planting crops, and on the other hand, not to spend too much money on heating and lighting the room?

In fact, this question does not have a clear answer, because it all depends on the preferences of the owner - on the desired amount of crop, the time that the summer resident can spend on caring for and arranging the building, and much more.

Greenhouse size

There are several basic sizes of polycarbonate greenhouses, most commonly used for growing vegetables or herbs. These include mini-greenhouses, which are mainly intended for growing seedlings or a small number of plants, standard designs that prevail in the summer cottages of ordinary people (length 3.3-4 m) and the last - large farm buildings designed for industrial crops.

1. Mini-greenhouses made of polycarbonate.

Such buildings are traditionally considered to be greenhouses - due to their small size, they are used to grow the very first seedlings - for further seating in a summer cottage. Such structures can be of any shape - a square, a rectangle or a dome, and also be located in a place that the summer resident likes - in a semi-dug state directly on the garden, in a residential building (in a sunny place) or on a small hill right in the middle of the garden.

Advantages of mini greenhouses

The advantages of such mini-greenhouses are their small size - the height is not more than 100-120 cm and the area is about 2 square meters. It is precisely due to the fact that the building is of such small size that it can be freely moved to another place you like. Plus, the construction will take the summer resident no more than two days and he will spend on this meager amount of building materials.

Since it is important to constantly look after this small greenhouse, as well as its larger “relatives” - water, loosen the ground, ventilate the interior and wipe the cellular polycarbonate itself, it must be equipped with opening elements.

Varieties of mini-greenhouses by access method:

• "Butterfly" is a greenhouse, one half of the cover of which is attached to ordinary door hinges and, when opened, is fixed in a predetermined position with a special support;

• "Dragonfly" - such a building opens similarly to the first, with the only difference being that it can be done from two sides;

• "Swallow" with double-sided opening is a greenhouse that, when opened, allows the most convenient and simple maintenance of the interior of the greenhouse;

• Removable covers are not the most convenient, but a simple and easy method of opening a small structure; if desired, the top cover can be “planted” on auxiliary fixing elements for more convenient ventilation.

Skillful and savvy gardeners can freely grow in such small "boxes" not only seedlings and other "roots", but also a fairly large number of the earliest vegetables. You just need to equip the greenhouse with a small heater - electric or mechanical. It is clear that for such a small design it is simply silly to build a separate heating system, but the option with a portable stove or an electric blower is quite acceptable.

Small greenhouses are quite easy to make - for the smallest models, it will be enough to buy one standard polycarbonate sheet, several boards or metal pipes, as well as fasteners. An important factor when choosing a place is the presence of constant illumination and the location of the building on a small hill - so that melt water does not flood the building.

1. Standard greenhouses made of polycarbonate.

Of course, the presence of small structures in a summer cottage gives the owner certain advantages, but a really rich and year-round harvest can be ensured only by building a normal medium-sized greenhouse.

• in order to choose the size of a purchased or home-made greenhouse, it is important to focus on the required amount of crop that is planned to be grown in such a building, as well as on the availability of sufficient space on the site. For example, it is better to purchase a more compact greenhouse 3 by 6 meters, and place it on a sunny hill, than a larger one - 3 by 8 meters, and install it in a dark "pit". After all, even a small building, in the presence of all favorable conditions, will “give” the consumer a much larger amount of crop than the largest building located in a cold and windy place;

• Another important point is the seasonality of use. An autumn-spring greenhouse does not require special equipment - heating, lighting or similar equipment, so you can safely build a fairly massive building. Although, if the summer resident is set up for a large amount of work and can afford it financially, then it is quite possible to organize the serious construction of a large-sized greenhouse "with amenities" for year-round use. But here it is important to correctly calculate and select all the elements of heating, irrigation - to maintain a given microclimate in the room;

• as for the optimal height of the greenhouse, everything is much simpler here - standard polymer sheets are available in two variations: 6 and 12-meter plates, 2.09-2.11 m thick. Due to greater convenience - during delivery and installation, they are more often used shorter models, moreover, for arched structures this is the most acceptable option. Of course, you can build a taller building, but it makes no sense - such a room is much more difficult to maintain (wash the walls and ceiling, just open the upper hatches), besides, the summer resident simply does not need such a structure.

So, from what was written earlier, we can conclude that the optimal width of the greenhouse is about 3.45–3.55 m - for arranging three parallel beds. At the same time, the distance from the row to the wall should be 12–18 cm, the optimal width of the passages should be 60–70 cm, and the beds themselves should be from 70 to 80 cm.

Tip: if two rows are enough for a gardener to grow plants, then their width may be slightly larger, while the transverse length of the greenhouse will be approximately 2.55 m, but not already 2.3 m.

Finally, it should be said that the longer the polycarbonate greenhouse is, the more powerful the heating system should be, and more windows and hatches will be required.

It is sometimes difficult for an inexperienced owner to work with the polymer on their own, this article will tell you , study our tips so that you do not have problems in the future.

A durable canopy over the porch will protect you from the sun and rain, here – , you can read how to build a reliable canopy on the house.

Inside a good greenhouse, optimal parameters of heat and humidity are created, there is no wind, cold drafts. The soil for greenhouses is specially prepared. The soil is well warmed up, fertilized, the earth is loosened. All this together contributes to the development of plants - cucumbers, tomatoes, peppers, eggplant, as well as the first greens, lettuce, onions, and other vegetables.

Features of greenhouse cultivation

The greenhouse cultivation of vegetables has its own characteristics:

• the illumination in the greenhouse is less than on the street;
• plants need regular watering;
• ventilation is necessary in case of hot weather, otherwise the temperature in a closed greenhouse will reach high values ​​\u200b\u200b(60 degrees);
• care must be taken to prevent plant diseases, they spread quickly enough in the greenhouse.

Greenhouse frame

The frame of the greenhouse, first of all, must be stable and durable, it must withstand both the weight of snow on the roof and gusts of wind. The most popular are the designs of greenhouses with either a gable roof or an arched one.

The peculiarity of arched greenhouses is that they can be easily covered with plastic wrap. Greenhouses with vertical walls and a reliable gable roof, plus in the next - more usable area for tall plants.

Optimum greenhouse height

The optimal height in the greenhouse is mainly 2.5 m. If a greenhouse with a gable roof is built, the walls of such a greenhouse should be at least 1.8-2 m high. In this case, it is convenient to work, no need to bend down, you can plant, for example, varieties tall tomatoes, or tomatoes of the determinate group, - not limited in growth.

Cucumbers or beans are directed upwards, and thus the greenhouse area can be used to the maximum.

greenhouse width. The optimal width of the greenhouse should be at least three meters. This will allow you to arrange a convenient central path and plant plants three in a row on the sides - the harvest will be greater!

If you buy a ready-made prefabricated arched greenhouse, in this case the width of the greenhouse may be less. It must be remembered that the wider the greenhouse, the lower the strength of its structure. This is especially true for glass greenhouses - glass is quite heavy.

Foundation

Traditionally, when building a greenhouse, it is pulled from north to south, in which case the lighting in the greenhouse will be uniform throughout the day.

A greenhouse built on a foundation is undoubtedly more durable, practical, and convenient to use. In the conditions of the middle lane, a strip foundation is used for the construction of greenhouses.

The material from which the greenhouse is built

The frame of the greenhouse made of wood is not only the most widely available material, but also a material that has useful properties. Wood has low thermal conductivity, wood materials are easy to process. At the same time, there are also disadvantages - a short service life of a tree due to high humidity and, at the same time, high temperature, all this is very typical for summer greenhouses.

In winter, the moistened frame tree of the greenhouse is subjected to a severe frost test. Normal coloring does not help, it crumbles quickly over time. Special antiseptics used for wood help well. They protect against high humidity and temperature, and also have antimicrobial properties.

It must be remembered that under the operating conditions of a greenhouse, some antiseptics indoors at high temperatures are toxic, this can cause allergies, headaches.

Frames of greenhouses made of aluminum.

Such a frame is light, durable, plastic enough, does not rust. The shelf life of aluminum greenhouses is very long, with minimal maintenance. But there is also a negative aspect - aluminum has a high thermal conductivity and, as a result, additional insulation is needed. It is not unimportant in our conditions to remember that aluminum is a non-ferrous metal, and it is sometimes stolen.

In the case of buying a finished greenhouse made of aluminum or steel, pay attention to the presence of a special greenhouse profile in it. This kind of profile involves wide shelves used to support the glass. Glass well withstands sufficiently large loads, both shock and static, in the case when it can, it rests around the entire perimeter with its largest area (from 12 to 15 mm).

On the contrary, in the case when the support of the glass will be 5-7 mm, and small loads can destroy the glass, this is especially unsafe when constructing a glass roof. It makes sense to pay attention to the strength of the profile for greenhouses.

What to hide?

Materials for covering the greenhouse are mainly film and glass. Glass can be both ordinary, window, 4 mm, and special glass - greenhouse. Feature of hothouse glass is its high consumer properties. The cost of greenhouse glass is slightly higher than window glass. Glass in winter must be freed from snow.

Film - unlike glass, a more economical option, but it lasts no more than two years. You should choose a film with a thickness of at least 1 mm. Reinforced film, of course, will last longer, although it is more expensive.

Cellular polycarbonate is a modern material for covering greenhouses.

Polycarbonate are lightweight panels that have air pockets. Such panels are light, elastic, they do not break, they are rolled up. Thermal insulation of polycarbonate is not inferior even to double glazing in greenhouses, and at the same time they keep the heat accumulated during the day inside the greenhouse, and also protect the plants from overheating.

Polycarbonate greenhouses are durable and very frost-resistant, by their properties they protect against hard ultraviolet radiation, and at the same time they have a modern beautiful appearance.

• The paths in the greenhouse can be made of wooden boards, while they are treated with disinfecting special preparations, otherwise they themselves will become a source of diseases and pests.
• Use light portable wide planks-paths in order not to walk on the ground in the greenhouse, not to compact the ground and thus the plants will develop better.
• The soil in the greenhouse, every season it is better to change mainly for a spade bayonet. This will increase the yield.
• When planting greenhouse plants, it is good to use compost or manure (for example, horse manure, with a small amount of straw), peat-humus can be used.
• Alternatively, you can lay a layer of fresh green grass on the bottom of the ridge. Grass, like manure, will gradually burn out, while it will release both the necessary nutrients and heat.

There are many options to choose from, since the classification of greenhouses is carried out according to several factors: by the method of heating, the minimum temperature in it, the frame material, the type of coating, location, shape. Yes, and it is necessary to decide for what purposes the greenhouse will be used. What will grow in it and in what volumes?

So, when choosing a greenhouse, you need to take into account the features of the site as much as possible, its location on the cardinal points, the location of the greenhouse in relation to the house and the intensity of sunlight during the day.

The optimal dimensions of the greenhouse: the height of the low wall is 1.5 m, its own height is 2.5 m, the width is 3 m. Such dimensions allow you to place two beds inside and take care of the plants, easily reaching the farthest ones. The length of the greenhouse depends on the preferences of gardeners and the size of the site itself. As a rule - up to 6 m. It is recommended to partition off greenhouses of greater length - for better organization of plant care.

It is important what is or grows next to the greenhouse - shading should be avoided.

Greenhouse with or without heating

Greenhouses and greenhouses are divided into unheated and heated. Unheated can be operated only with the onset of this spring. Their main advantage is low price.

Heated greenhouses can be heated with biofuels - this requires a large amount of fresh manure and compost. The mixture melts, releases heat and warms the space of the greenhouse. Such an "underground stove" works continuously, in addition to heating, it also provides fertilizer. But for some crops (the same tomatoes), such an amount of organic matter in the soil does not benefit.

You can use water heating in the greenhouse by installing a stove outside, and laying pipes inside along the walls. However, the arrangement of the pipeline system will require the investment of a considerable amount of funds, and a permanent presence is also necessary.

Another way is electricity. Summer residents for greenhouses have already adapted electric heaters, cables for underfloor heating, but for high-quality heating it is necessary to ensure good air circulation, which is very difficult in an enclosed space. In addition, the constant heating of the greenhouse in autumn and winter will be too expensive, unless you are growing products for sale in the distribution network.

Greenhouse frame - wood, plastic, metal?

The frame of the greenhouse can be made of wood, plastic and metal (steel or aluminum). Wood is the cheapest. It is environmentally friendly, easy to process, but short-lived. Under conditions of high humidity and temperature, it quickly begins to rot, and treatment with various protective agents often does not give the desired results.

Metal frames do not have this disadvantage, they are easy to mount and have an increased margin of safety - but they are much more expensive. And non-galvanized steel frames are also subject to corrosion. Another disadvantage of metal is its high thermal conductivity. The galvanized frame is well protected from corrosion, but has low strength indicators: thin sheets of steel are used here, which are easily deformed. Experts pay attention to a square steel profile made of galvanized steel - this is almost the best option for those who buy a greenhouse for a long time. Such a profile has high strength characteristics and, due to galvanization, is not subject to corrosion.

Plastic frames are still rare, their quality is high - however, the cost is also.

How to cover the greenhouse

The choice is film, glass and cellular polycarbonate. Polyethylene is inexpensive, transmits light well, and is easily attached to the frame. But it breaks easily, ultraviolet rays act destructively on it, it also suffers from frost. The reinforced film is more durable, but even it does not last more than two or three seasons, and even then with careful handling.

Glass is more durable and transmits much more light than film. But it needs to be dismantled for the winter - the glass roof can crack under the weight of snow. And another minus is the formation of a large amount of condensate, the cold drops of which can be detrimental to greenhouse plants.

Cellular polycarbonate: lightweight, durable, will allow you to forget about the problem of replacing the greenhouse cover for a long time. Perhaps the only drawback is the high cost.

Optimal greenhouse shape

According to the shape of the greenhouse, there are gable, Dutch greenhouses (unlike traditional greenhouses, they do not have vertical walls, but inclined ones, the greenhouse seems to expand towards the bottom), arched, domed and polygonal, as well as tunnel shelters. The most beautiful are polygonal and domed greenhouses, but such structures are too expensive, they are more often used in the construction of greenhouses or winter gardens. Tunnel shelters are suitable for growing low plants, such as seedlings, radishes, green crops.

The most popular are arched, Dutch and gable greenhouses. They are comfortable, well lit and effectively ventilated. For growing low crops (peppers, low-growing varieties of tomatoes), you can choose an arched greenhouse, and for high crops (cucumbers, tall varieties of tomatoes or flowers), a gable greenhouse is better.

Growing crops outdoors in an unpredictable climate with extreme temperature fluctuations always comes with some risk. Your own greenhouse will help protect your crop from frost and supply it with everything you need even in the hottest and driest summer.

And like any responsible business, building a greenhouse on a personal plot requires preparation and careful planning. Rough actions will not only require rework and additional costs in the future, but will also affect the efficiency of the greenhouse and, as a result, the yield. Therefore, before proceeding with the construction, you need to familiarize yourself with the drawings of greenhouses, learn more about the design and features.

The efficiency of the greenhouse depends on the material used as the cladding. In terms of its qualities, the best option is to use polycarbonate sheets.

Previously, glass and polyethylene were the main materials for greenhouse cladding. But the first is fragile, heavy and difficult to install, and the second is fragility, low tensile strength and a tendency to collect dust on itself. Therefore, now most summer residents use cellular polycarbonate as a material for covering greenhouses designed for several seasons.

The material consists of three layers.

1. Upper- a solid sheet of polycarbonate, provided with a UV film and protecting the material from destruction under the influence of sunlight.
2. Average- a number of empty cells. They greatly lighten the weight of the material and act as thermal insulation. Also, the walls of these cells play the role of stiffeners, imparting increased strength to the material.
3. Lower- a solid sheet of polycarbonate.

Important! A standard polycarbonate panel is 6 meters long and 2.1 meters wide. During the design of the greenhouse, it is advisable to build on these numbers, calculating the length, width and height of the building, as well as the distance between the frame elements.

Polycarbonate gained its popularity due to the following set of advantages.

1. Compared to glass, it is lighter in weight. Therefore, for a polycarbonate greenhouse, the requirements for the frame and foundation are not so strict.
2. Durability - with proper work and a responsible approach to business, the skin will last you at least 5-6 years.
3. Low thermal conductivity - the presence of voids in cells filled with air makes polycarbonate a good heat insulator. Plants in a greenhouse with such sheathing are less susceptible to sudden changes in temperature.
4. High light transmission - light passes through the material unhindered.
5. The cell walls, as mentioned above, play the role of stiffeners. Thanks to them, polycarbonate is a durable material that can withstand a considerable amount of snow that falls on the roof of the greenhouse in winter.

Important! Polycarbonate should be bent in a certain way so that the fold lines are located across the stiffeners. The image below shows correct and incorrect examples.

In addition to the material, during the design of the greenhouse, it is important to choose its future shape. In total, there are five main types of polycarbonate greenhouse construction, each with its own characteristics, advantages and disadvantages.

1. Greenhouse in the shape of an arch- horizontal beams are attached to the semicircular support elements. The frame is completely sheathed with bent polycarbonate sheets. A semicircular greenhouse is good because there will be a minimum amount of snow on its roof, in addition, much less materials and time will be required to build a frame. As for the disadvantages, arched greenhouses usually have a low height, which is not only inconvenient to use, but also imposes restrictions on the cultivation of certain crops.

Greenhouse with gable roof- classic version. The construction will require more material and time, but at the same time the problem with a low building height is solved. If desired, on its basis, you can create, known for its efficient ventilation system.

Greenhouse with pitched roof- the best option for a greenhouse attached to a fence, house or summer kitchen. The design is relatively simple to create, and when it is erected near the house, the cost of connecting communications (if necessary) is reduced.

- a semicircular greenhouse of small size with an opening sash. It got its name for the similarity of the design with the device of the bread box. Well suited for working with seedlings, if necessary, you can adjust the degree of opening of the sash depending on the temperature.

dome greenhouse, also known as hipped roof. Difficult to build, but extremely resistant to wind and snow. In addition, it is characterized by the best indicators of illumination. An additional advantage is an attractive appearance.

Prices for cellular polycarbonate

cellular polycarbonate

Drafting a project

Work on a preliminary design of a polycarbonate greenhouse is carried out in several stages:

• choice of location;
• determining the size of the greenhouse;
• form definition;
• determination of the material for the frame;
• choice of foundation type;
• calculation of the number of doors and ventilation windows;
• drawing up a drawing.

First you need to choose a place for the construction of a greenhouse. The evaluation criteria and their meaning are shown in the table below.

Table. Criteria for choosing a place for a polycarbonate greenhouse.

Criteria	Meaning
Sunlight distribution	The greenhouse area should ideally receive sunlight from any direction from morning to evening. Shading from nearby buildings, fences, and trees is undesirable. If this condition is completely impossible to comply with, then at least the place under the greenhouse should be illuminated by the sun from noon until 6-8 o'clock.
Landscape	It is advisable to equip the greenhouse on level ground. If there is a slope, terracing will be required.
Orientation to the cardinal points	Ideally, the greenhouse should look to the north and south with “long” walls, and to the west and east, respectively, with its ends. In this case, ventilation windows should be located on the south side.
Winds	It is undesirable to equip a greenhouse in a place regularly blown with cold air currents. Therefore, the northern slopes of the hills are hardly suitable for building a building.

Important! It is also advisable not to equip a greenhouse in the lowlands or on peat soils - the temperature in these places is not much, but below the average value, which will affect the condition of the plants.

The size of the greenhouse is chosen based on the area of ​​the site, the budget for the construction and the goals that the owner of the plot sets for himself. All greenhouses, except for domed ones, have the shape of an elongated rectangle. Along the edges of the building are beds with crops, in the middle - a path. If the greenhouse is wide, then several paths and rows with beds are possible.

The optimal width of the beds is about 100 centimeters, the tracks are 60-70. At lower values, it will become inconvenient to work in a greenhouse. The width of the building is calculated as follows: the widths of the track (or tracks) and all the beds of the greenhouse are summed up, 10-15 centimeters are added to the resulting figure, taking into account the thickness of the walls of the greenhouse. The final result will be the width of your greenhouse. On average, it is from 2.5 to 6 meters.

The length of the building should be a multiple of 2-2.1 meters - the width of a standard polycarbonate sheet. To this number are added all the same 10-15 centimeters of the walls of the greenhouse. As a result, the final length of the object.

Advice! The building will be strong if the vertical elements of the frame are spaced at intervals of 1 meter. Take this into account when calculating the length of the greenhouse.

The height of the greenhouse depends on the shape. For arched buildings without a plinth, it is limited to 2.1 meters at its highest point. To make the greenhouse taller and more convenient to use, you will need to create a plinth using stone, timber or brick. For other types of greenhouses, the height is chosen at the request of the site owner.

Separately, it is worth mentioning the size of greenhouses-bread bins. In most cases, such greenhouses are extremely small in size, allowing you to work with plants or seedlings without entering the greenhouse. Accordingly, there is no need for a track. The height of such greenhouses should not exceed human height, otherwise it will not be very convenient to raise and lower the sashes.

The device of a standard greenhouse "Khlebnitsa"

The shape of the greenhouse is chosen based on the personal preferences of the owner of the plot. More details about the arrangement of each of them will be described below.

The frame of the greenhouse is made of the following materials.

1. Tree- it is easy to work with it, the cost of the material is relatively low. However, wood is susceptible to rotting and swelling due to dampness. The latter will be especially facilitated by the humid microclimate of the greenhouse. Requires treatment with antiseptics and, preferably, paint.
2. Metal- strong and very durable material. But working with him will be much more difficult. Corrosion protection is required.
3. Plastic and PVC profiles- combine the durability of metal and ease of processing wood. But it is worth noting that greenhouses with such a frame will be less resistant to the effects of masses of snow or strong gusts of wind.

The type of foundation depends on the estimated mass of the building. If it is planned to build a small greenhouse-bread box or another, then there is no need for a foundation. For buildings of medium mass, a point foundation or a timber-based structure is preferable. If you plan to build a long and high greenhouse, then it makes sense to equip a strip foundation made of concrete.

Prices for PVC profiles

pvc profile

The calculation of doors and windows is based on data on the length and width of the greenhouse. In addition to the "bread boxes", all other greenhouses must have at least one door. The optimal dimensions are 1.7-2 m in height and 0.75-0.9 m in width. For greenhouses longer than 6-8 m, it is desirable to equip two doors at opposite ends of the building.

In small greenhouses, ventilation can be carried out through the same door. If we are talking about buildings of considerable size, then there is a need to equip ventilation windows, which must be evenly distributed along the entire length. Hinged transom windows equipped with thermal cylinders are best suited.

Important! To protect plants from hypothermia, ventilation windows should be equipped on the south side.

Now it's time for the final stage - drawing up a drawing. If you have not had experience in drawing before, then use graph paper or regular double sheets from a squared notebook - it is much more convenient to work this way. Instead of pens, use a pencil - it's easier to erase a mistake or a flaw than to redraw it all over again. It makes sense for summer residents who are more experienced in designing to draw up a drawing in CAD programs.

It is necessary to carry out the plan in at least two projections - from the side of the end and from the side of the long wall. Another view can give a better idea of ​​\u200b\u200bthe building - in isometry.

Step by step drawing is performed as follows.

Step 1. The scale is determined.

Step 2 The outer contours of the greenhouse are drawn, the length, width and height of the building are carefully observed, adjusted for scale.

Step 3 The base of the greenhouse is applied.

Step 4 The vertical supports of the walls appear. If we are talking about a one- or two-slope greenhouse, then rafters are also drawn.

Step 5 Horizontal frame elements, slopes and lintels, doors and ventilation windows are applied to the drawing.

Step 6 The drawing is supplemented with notes, detail views (especially useful when creating a fastener scheme), and a calculation of the amount of materials needed.

Arched greenhouses

Below are a few drawings of arched greenhouses. When compiling your own, it will be useful to build on them and use them as an example. The design of semicircular greenhouses has its own interesting features.

1. The height of the building is selected based on the height of the bent polycarbonate sheet. With its standard dimensions of 6x2.1 meters, the height of a small arched greenhouse will be from 1.9 to 2.1 meters. When creating a project, consider the height not only at the highest point, but also closer to the edges of the greenhouse.
2. When drawing up a drawing, it is necessary to take into account the fact that a bent frame and sheathing will be required. You will be required to calculate the bending radius, which should not be less than the minimum radius allowed for polycarbonate. You can get it from the seller of the material.
3. Arcs made of bent metal or plastic act as vertical supports. For a greenhouse 4-5 meters long, two vertical elements are enough - at the front end and at the back. With a longer arc length, it should be located at intervals of no more than one meter. Arches are screwed (or welded) to a rectangular base.
4. Between themselves, the arcs are connected using horizontal frame elements - guides. Without taking into account the base, 5 to 7 guides will be required. One element should be located at the highest point of the greenhouse, the rest are evenly distributed to the left and right of it.

Double and single slope greenhouses

The main difference in the drawings of greenhouses with a traditional roof is the number of slopes, one or two. Their angle of inclination varies, from 20° to 30° or even up to 45°. Such values ​​​​ensure the precipitation (in particular snow) from the roof, therefore it is undesirable to use lower values, otherwise in a very snowy winter there is a risk that the top of the greenhouse will break under the weight.

To ensure greater strength of the walls between the vertical elements, the arrangement of diagonal crossbars or slopes is acceptable. In principle, it is desirable to make both the slopes and all other parts of the frame from a steel profile with a cross section of at least 40x20 millimeters.

Important! It is desirable that the diagonal beams and slopes on opposite walls are placed in the same way.

The optimal distance of the vertical elements of the frame between each other is 1-1.2 meters or less. This also applies to rafters, which are placed on the same lines with vertical wall elements. An example can be seen in the numerous drawings of polycarbonate greenhouses with a gable or lean-to roof.

When calculating the length, width, height of the greenhouse, as well as the distances between the frame elements, it is very convenient to proceed from the dimensions of a standard polycarbonate sheet - 6 meters long and 2.1 wide. Do not forget that it can be divided into two or four parts, and in the same way, when designing, proceed from elements of 3x2.1 or 1.5x2.1 meters. Here you may have a question - why is the division of the sheet by width not applied? The fact is that sawing through a six-meter sheet is laborious and, moreover, the use of sheets of 6x1.05 or 3x1.05 meters is impractical.