How to fasten album sheets with your own hands. Scrapbooking: an option for binding sheets in a photo album

So we decided to make a scrapbook, beautifully arrange photos dedicated to a certain period of life, some event, etc.
You should start with the basics, by creating a binding for your future album. From the experience of more “advanced” craftswomen, I learned that the optimal number of sheets in an album is from 6 to 10. I bring to your attention my work on creating a binding, where I described everything in detail step by step and showed it clearly. So we decided to make a scrap album, beautifully arrange photographs dedicated to a certain period of life, some event, etc.
You should start with the basics, by creating a binding for your future album. From the experience of more “advanced” craftswomen, I learned that the optimal number of sheets in an album is from 6 to 10. I bring to your attention my work on creating do-it-yourself scrapbook binding, where I described in detail everything step by step and showed it clearly. In my case, there will be 8 sheets in the album, i.e. 16 pages, but with the help of some secrets, you can increase the number of pages at times, but without changing the number of binding sheets, but more on that later.

To make the basis for the album, in my case, you will need:
1. Drawing paper
2. Stationery knife
3. Metal ruler
4. Self-healing cutting mat (you can get by with a piece of linoleum, just not the one that lies directly on the floor !!)
5. Non-writing pen (for creasing paper)
6. Glue moment-crystal

We prepare the necessary materials and proceed to the next stage (after selecting a photo) of creating a scrapbook, directly to making the binding.

1. Required materials

2. Preparation of connecting strips: connecting strips will help us fasten the sheets on the one hand, on the other hand they will provide us with a gap between the pages.
We take 1 sheet of paper, from which we will cut out stripes with which we will fasten the leaves of the album.
(you can glue this sheet with non-woven fabric, but you can do without this procedure, the non-woven fabric will give the paper rigidity and strength, and it is the connector strips that will work when we flip through the album).
I'll do without interlining now. And do not rush to cut the stripes. It's better to do it like this. Approximate scheme for cutting into strips:
Stripe size: 21cm (sheet height) * 2.5cm.

I have a distance between pages of 0.5 cm.
We lay the sheet horizontally, measure 1 cm from the right edge to the left and make a scoring (for this we need our non-writing pen. We draw a line by slightly pressing on the handle to make a groove), then to the left after 0.5 cm another one, then to the left after 1 cm - cutting line.
That. we get a connecting strip 2.5 cm wide.

In total, we cut 10 strips from a sheet of paper (this is provided that I have 8 sheets of an album).

3. Refinement of connecting stripes. For beauty when collecting pages, we need to cut off the corners of the strip, approximately at an angle of approximately 45 degrees. I didn't measure, I just cut it roughly the same with scissors.

now you need to bend the strip with cut corners along the scoring lines. It should look like this:

Our connecting strip has two folding sides (wings)

Now we coat with glue (the moment of the crystal) one of the wings of the strip on the outside and glue it to the sheet in the same way as we tried on this strip. (after applying glue to the strip itself, wait 10 seconds).

Attach a strip, check that all edges and folds match, until the glue is pressed, it is possible to trim, and press well.
As a result, we get this:

The first sheet lies on the working surface with a glued strip. We bend the connecting strip to the sheet, so that 0.5 cm, which provide us with a gap between the pages, are adjacent to the sheet. Lubricate the free wing of the strip that is glued with glue

We take the second sheet of paper and apply it to the strip, aligning it with the fold of the connecting strip and also along lateral sheet lines, they must match the bottom sheet

Having glued, we will see that the second sheet on the sides coincides with the first one (the sheets must be aligned exactly along the long side, but the edge of the sheet, which we will take and flip through, is shifted relative to the bottom sheet.

7. Gluing a few more sheets we will see the following picture: our sheets are arranged according to the principle of steps

8. Gluing it all together we will see that on the first and last sheet we have connectors on one side only, i.e. no connecting strips outside.

We take the remaining two strips and glue them to the first and last leaflet.

9. Binding alignment. And now we need to align our binding. Now it is bent only in one direction, in the direction in which we glued the sheets. And we need to bend it in the other direction, then it will turn out even. We bend carefully, sheet by sheet, thus. our steps change direction (in my photo, when bending the binding, there is already gauze, let this not bother anyone, I just didn’t bend it back in time).

As a result, we should get such a glued block.

The amazing art of scrapbooking originated not so long ago, but immediately gained immense popularity among needlewomen. This paper technique is ideal for creating incredibly beautiful and original photo albums. Try and keep the most pleasant memories using scrapbooking: a step-by-step master class on learning high-quality album binding with step by step photos And detailed description all actions are listed below.

Learning the Scrapbooking Technique: Album Binding Master Class

Required materials and tools:

• thick cardboard with a thickness of about 1.5-2 mm;
• elastane-free fabric or leather for album cover;
• cotton fabric for binding;
• synthetic winterizer;
• thick paper;
• cutter (a special tool for bookbinding or a regular construction cutter);
• ruler;
• stationery knife;
• construction double-sided adhesive tape;
• glue "Moment Crystal" or its equivalent;
• sewing machine (if any)

Cutting cardboard blanks.

We cut the cardboard into blanks of the required size. To make an album with 9 spreads, you need 10 sheets about 30 * 30 cm in size (you can use other sizes of parts). For the album cover, use a cutter to cut out sheets 31 cm high and 30.5 cm wide. Do not forget to monitor the cutting accuracy. It must be remembered that landscape cardboard is very dense and it will take considerable effort to cut it.

Strip cutting.

Using a cutter or scissors, cut strips of 3.5 * 30 cm from pastel or watercolor paper. For our album, you need to make 9 paper strips. We additionally cut two more blanks 3.5 * 31 cm in size for the cover.

Creasing strips.

Creasing (applying a longitudinal mark for subsequent folding of the paper) is also performed using a cutter, but using special creasing inserts instead of blades. If a cutter is not available, the strips can be bent by hand using a ruler.

We adhere to the following dimensions: 1.5 cm (edge) - 0.5 cm (fold between sheets) - 1.5 cm (edge). We creas strips for the cover with other parameters: 1.6 cm (edge) - 0.3 cm (fold between sheets) - 1.6 cm (edge).

Preparation of strips for gluing.

At each strip, cut off the upper part at an angle of 45 degrees with scissors and a ruler-corner. It is convenient to do this on a special cutting mat. We carefully fold the finished parts along the lines outlined earlier.

Gluing album sheets.

We monitor the accuracy of combining the workpieces in height. We connect all cardboard parts with each other using strips and glue, with the exception of blanks for covers and endpapers (we will glue them last). The result is a construction of 8 sheets glued together with 9 paper strips, and two strips at the edges remain free for now.

Binding gluing.

The width of the binding of our album should be approximately 5 cm. From the cotton fabric, cut out a blank with a width equal to the width of the binding plus 1.5 cm on each side. That is, the fabric strip should be 8 * 30 cm in size. We glue it to the binding, and carefully close the edges of the strip with an inlay to prevent them from shedding.

Cover making.
For the cover you need:

• two sheets of cardboard measuring 30.5 * 31 cm;
• cardboard blank 5.5 cm wide and 31 cm long;
• two paper strips punched in size 1.6 - 0.3 - 1.6 cm;
• cotton fabric;
• sintepon.

We glue the strips to the cardboard blanks to form the future cover. We cut out the padding polyester to the size of the cover and the fabric with a margin of 1.5 cm on each side for folds. We mount the synthetic winterizer to the surface of the cardboard using a construction double-sided adhesive tape. We carefully fold the edges of the cover fabric (in our case, it is genuine leather) and mount them to the cardboard on a double-sided tape, paying special attention to the corners.

Using a sewing machine, we sew the cover on each side of it. It's okay, you don't have a car. In this case, it is quite possible to get by with one sizing, but instead of leather, you should choose a dense cotton fabric without adding elastane, and put the edges of the folds on Moment Crystal glue or its equivalent.

At the corners of the cover, we install metal corners and securely fix them with glue and carefully crimp them with pliers.

The scrapbook cover is almost ready. It remains only to decorate it as you wish. Flat elements should be used as decoration: decor, inscriptions, pieces of thick paper with a pattern or an unusual texture. We collect them in advance and glue them on the front of the album cover.

If desired, you can make a fastener using Velcro, buckles or buttons.

Then we glue the inside of the future album to the cover. To do this, we generously glue the releases of the binding fabric (or leather) with glue and press them tightly against the cardboard part of the cover. We also glue the free part of the paper strips from the first and last pages to the cover cardboard. We do the same on the other side.

Then we proceed to the installation of the flyleaf. We carefully glue the free cardboard to the endpapers and put it under the press for several hours. It takes about 7-8 hours for the glue to dry completely.

As a result, we get a blank for a scrapbooking album with a beautiful book binding. It remains only to decorate the pages at your discretion and paste your favorite photos.

Video on the topic of the article

Other workshops on making scrapbooking album binding can be found in the videos below.

In most cases, photo albums with an abundance of scrapbooking jewelry are planted on metal rings. It is quite difficult to deal with them otherwise: as a rule, many volumetric elements on the page interfere with sewing them in a different way. How do you make a good binding for an album? I offer you a way to bind pages with glue.

First, I made all the pages for the album (the size of my pages is 27x29 cm), leaving 1 cm for the fold near the spine:

I left 1 cm at the spine on each of the pages. In fact, then we only need one fold at the spine for a turn, but it’s better to leave it everywhere, because. In the process of work, sometimes you want to swap pages. When we are already firmly sure where which page will be located in the future album, we can cut off a bent centimeter on one of the spread pages.

And we use the second bend to glue our pages into spreads. I glued them on Moment Crystal glue, but this is not critical, I think everyone can choose any other glue they like. In order to apply a bead of glue evenly on the folded part of the page, I protected everything else with a sheet of plain office paper.

Smear the glue and glue:

In the same way, we glue all the other spreads, adding them in the right order.

In order for the album to serve for a long time and not deteriorate from frequent viewing, I glued ribbons of cotton fabric on each fold at each spread. Now our folds are not afraid of the load when turning over, it is unlikely that the fabric strips will allow them to break.

Next, I prepared a beer cardboard, which we will have between the pages. Of course, you can also make soft pages that are not reinforced with a cardboard layer. But pages on cardboard have a number of advantages: they look much better, they are not easy to wrinkle, and when gluing pages on cardboard, all paper irregularities that were formed as a result of working with sprays and hot embossing are smoothed out. I chose beer cardboard because it is quite light and works great for the inner frame of the album. I have 5 spreads in the album, which means we need 4 sheets of cardboard, and the side pages will serve as endpapers and will be attached to the cover itself. The vertical size of the cardboard is the same as the page, horizontally it is 5 mm smaller. For each sheet of cardboard at the spine, on both sides, I pasted strips of the same cardboard about 1 cm wide. It is they who give a thickening at the spine, which will allow us not to spare volumetric elements and boldly decorate the pages with them.

As you can see, the height of these strips does not reach the edges of the cardboard. This makes them invisible in the future.

Now you can stick spreads on cardboard. I glued it on with spray glue. But here, again, who likes to glue with what, the main thing is that the glue is reliable, neatly smeared, and that the paper does not lead from it. We glue the spreads on the cardboard so that between the fold on the spine at the spread and the edge of the cardboard there are the very 5 mm that we laid when we cut the cardboard 5 mm less than the pages. This is necessary in order for the album to open well in the future.

This is how the cardboard indent from the spread spine looks like:

Glue the left side of the following spread onto the back of this cardboard:

I additionally smeared the spine with glue and made a press for it from stationery clips so that everything sticks even tighter:

I made the cover in the same way as in the master class on the cover for the notebook. I prepared two sheets of thick binding cardboard pasted over with a layer of fleece, the size of which is vertically larger than the pages by 5 mm on each side (in my case 30 cm), and horizontally corresponds to the width of the page (I have 27 cm). Also, as for the notebook, I made a spine, measuring the height of the spine of the album itself, which we glued together, I got 3 cm. And, as before, I glued the cardboard parts of the binding cover to the spine at a distance of 5 mm from it.

I glued the top pieces first.

And then the side ones, forming neat corners:

The frame of the cover is ready, you can try it on for the album:

Now you can decorate the cover, sew ties to it or make a fastening with an elastic band. I also dyed the white sections of the cardboard on which we glued the pages brown. acrylic paint, and glued an imitation of captal on the spine: I simply crocheted two shreds and pasted them with a beautiful pigtail up.

The result was an album that looked like a big good book:

I want to tell you how I make a binding for an album with a lot of spreads.

Most often, I make standard scrapbooks for 5 spreads. But sometimes, at the request of the customer, really real puffies are created, in which the binding must be especially strong.

To create the binding I used:

Sintepon;

To begin with, I make myself a small cheat sheet (like at school))). On it, I write down how many pages I need from cardboard, how many from cardstock, how many strips for gluing pages. Then here I write what size I should have a cover and pages.

If you look at the cheat sheet, then we will see the binding - top view, i.e. dashes are our pages. I make the outermost pages, circled in red circles, from cardstock, and all other pages from beer cardboard.

Since I already had several spreads, I “customized” the size of the cardboard pages to fit them - at the rate of plus 0.5 cm in height and width. For example, if I have a designed and decorated page measuring 19x24 cm, then the binding page will be 19.5 x 24.5 cm.

The ends of each beerboard page I file with an old nail file,

since the cardboard is soft - it easily wrinkles.

I cut out the outer pages from cardstock or thick watercolor paper.

Sometimes I use thin gray school cardboard, and paint over the edges with white acrylic.

I cut out strips for gluing pages (I will conditionally call them "jumpers") from white school cardboard, thick cardstock or thick watercolor paper. But here you need to experiment, because some types of cardboard or paper can break or crumble on the folds - it is better not to use such material.

Jumpers cut as follows. The edges are 2 cm wide, the center (the distance between two pages) is from 0.5 to 1 cm, depending on the volume of the decor. In this case, I used a standard of 0.7 cm. I cut off the corners of the jumpers (seen in the photo) so that when the decorated page is pasted, this corner does not peek out from above and below - approximately at an angle of minus 30 degrees.

Since I have an album with a large number of spreads, I need to strengthen the jumpers. I glue them (on Moment Crystal glue) with decorative tape, hide the edges on the reverse side. This is not a satin ribbon and not rep, it is more dense in texture. Sometimes I can sew such a tape in a zigzag, but in Lately I try not to perforate the spine.

I start gluing jumpers to the pages on the "Crystal". Please note that the cardboard pages are not glued to the very edge of the jumper, but about 1 mm away from the fold - this is necessary for the pages to open well.

First, I glue all the pages of cardboard, folding the binding in one direction.

Along the edges, make sure that the pages are glued evenly along the edges. I glue the outer pages from cardstock. The photo shows the blue watercolor paper I used.

I assembled such a ladder, I bend the binding in the opposite direction.

All edges above and below the album and in this position should be even - on the same level.

I'm starting to strengthen the spine. I take thick watercolor paper, go around the spine with it and, after lubricating it well, glue it onto the "Crystal". I'm waiting for it to dry.

In case suddenly (although this has never happened) during the use of the album, the paper on the spine begins to fray, we fix everything with a cloth. I used linen, sometimes I use cotton or gauze. I also glue the fabric on the "Crystal". Sometimes I glue it on PVA, but it leads the paper a little - I don’t like it.

I decorate the top and bottom of the spine with a ribbon with pom-poms, you can use special ribbons.

Then I collect all the sheets in a pile and fasten with a clamp. I put the binding on the spine, I check that it is perfectly even - from all edges it is adjacent to the surface of the table. I leave it to dry for a couple of hours, after which I open each spread several times to make the spine softer.

While the spine dries, I start creating the cover.

From beer cardboard I cut out two covers at the rate of plus 0.5 cm to the height of the album sheets and plus 0.25 cm to the width of the album sheets. For example, if I cut sheets of beer cardboard 19.5 x 24.5 cm, then the cover will be 19.75 x 25 cm.

I make a sandwich in the following order: first, fabric (preferably cotton), synthetic winterizer (I have a thickness of 1 cm), cardboard.

I sign for myself, where I will have a spine. I smear this entire side with a glue stick and glue the fabric along the entire length.

From the side of the spine, I retreat about three centimeters and glue the fabric on top, bottom and right. At the same time, I form corners.

I am not an expert in corners at all, although I really like everything to be neat. I show you how I make them. I cut the fabric without reaching an angle of about 0.5 cm. This is necessary in order to remove the excess thickness. I glue one side, tuck the other side, helping myself with an awl, glue it. I glue everything on a glue stick.

As a result, we get two covers. From the side of the spine I sew a decorative line. Fabric that has not been glued is not sewn.

I'm starting to make an album spine.

For the spine, I use thick cardstock, thin cardboard, or watercolor paper. I measure the spine of the binding, which is now drying, and add 0.5 cm to it. This thickness will be the spine of the album. On both sides I set aside 2.5 cm for gluing the spine to the cover. I score the blank for the spine vertically at a distance of 0.2-0.3 cm so that the spine of the album has a semicircular shape.

I make a sandwich: fabric, synthetic winterizer, spine.

I glue the fabric on the glue stick. Since the shape of the spine is slightly semicircular, I cut the fabric at the top and bottom in some places so that there are no wrinkles.

I decorate the covers and the spine.

I glue the covers and the spine on the glue "Crystal". In some places I fasten the clamps for better gluing.

I have gained experience in creating various page fasteners in scrapbooks. Best for large albums album hardcover with cloth cover. In that step by step master class I'll show you how I do it.

Immediately make a reservation that I will not give any dimensions and describe the materials. They may differ, so let's focus on the technology and the procedure.

UPD. If you want to clearly see the technology of creating an album on the video and get diagrams for calculating sizes, then sign up for my.

Step 1. To begin with, sheets of the basis for the pages should be prepared in the amount: number of spreads +1. They can all be from the same material. In this case, I used 1mm thick chipboard sheets and thick colored cardboard.

The number of connecting strips is equal to the number of turns. The connecting strips have the height of the base. On each strip, I crease two folds with a distance that is equal to the distance between the pages when closed. In this album, I had practically no voluminous decorations, and I made the minimum distance between the folds. On both sides there should be allowances for gluing.

Step 2. Then you need to connect the bases to each other using strips. I glue the first strip to one sheet.

Step 3. Then, on the other hand, I glue the second sheet to the strip. To glue evenly, it is convenient to align the sheets with the marking lines on the cutting mat.

Step 4. As a result, two base sheets should be connected together.

Step 5. I glue the next connecting strip to them.

Step 6. On the other side, I glued thick cardboard to this strip.

Step 7. The remaining sheets are connected in the same way.

Step 8. When all the sheets of the base are interconnected, I pasted the decorated pages of the album with photographs and decorations. Now you can measure the thickness of the block from the side of the spine.

Step 9. For the cover, you will need two sheets of cardboard equal to or slightly larger than the base sheets. The spine can be sealed with watercolor paper. The width of the strip for the spine should correspond to the measured thickness of the block with allowances. The spine needs to be punched.

Step 10. Sheets of cardboard are glued to the spine in the same way as the base block.

Step 11. Now you can cover the cover with fabric. I lay out the rigid base of the cover on the fabric and cut off the necessary piece with allowances.

Step 12 To prevent the fabric from moving, I fix it in several places with double-sided tape. I wrap the corners and glue with fabric glue.

Step 13. I decided to sew this album around the perimeter on a sewing machine. Cover decorations can also be sewn on with a sewing machine.

Step 14 It's time to glue the block into the cover. I first align the block in the cover, put the album on the table. Then I open the top side of the cover and apply glue to the opened flyleaf. Now it remains to carefully close the cover without moving the block, and press firmly. After that, you can turn the album over on the table and do the same with the other side of the cover. It is important to remember that the spine does not need to be glued.

Step 15. When the glue sets, you can use the album 🙂

In one of the following publications (which will appear in a few days) you can see the design of the cover and inner pages of this album.